Le calcul numérique de l'état de la mer

Gelci, R.; Devillaz, E.

doi:10.1051/lhb/1970010

Cited by 6 publications

(3 citation statements)

References 8 publications

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“…Our understanding of the energy balance of surface-wave spectra has advanced considerably in recent years as a combined result of fundamental theoretical studies and detailed field investigations. With increasing insight into the structure of the source function governing the spectral energy balance, many of the empirical terms in numerical wave-prediction models have gradually been replaced by more reliable expressions derived from an analysis of the basic physical processes (Gelci et al, 1957;Hasselmann, 1960;Pierson et al, 1966;Darbyshire and Simpson, 1967;Inoue, 1967;Barnett, 1968;Gelci and Devillaz, 1970;Ewing, 1971). However, a persistent difficulty obstructing this development has been an appropriate representation of the source term representing the energy loss due to white capping.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

On the spectral dissipation of ocean waves due to white capping

Hasselmann

1974

Boundary-Layer Meteorol

395

203

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The effect of white capping on the spectral energy balance of surface waves is investigated by expressing the white-cap interactions in terms of an equivalent ensemble of random pressure pulses. It is shown first that the source function for any non-expansible interaction process which is weak-inthe-mean is quasi-linear. In the case of white capping, the damping coefficient is then shown to be proportional to the square of the frequency, provided the wave scales are large compared with the white-cap dimensions. The remaining free factor is determined indirectly from consideration of the spectral energy balance. The proposed white-capping dissipation function is consistent with the structure of theenergy balance derived from JONSWAP, and the existence of a o-5 spectrum governed by a non-local energy balance between the atmospheric input, the nonlinear energy transfer and dissipation. However, closure of the energy balance involves hypotheses regarding the structure of the atmospheric input function which need to be tested by further measurements. The proposed set of source functions may nevertheless be useful for numerical wave-prediction. According to the model, nearly all the momentum transferred across the air-sea interface enters the wave field. For fetchlimited and fully developed spectra in a stationary, uniform wind field, the drag coefficient remains approximately constant. However, for more general wind conditions, this will not be the case and the wave spectrum should be included in an accurate parameterisation of the air-sea momentum transfer. * Contribution from the Sonderforschungsbereich 'Meeresforschung Hamburg' of the Deutsche Forschungsgemeinschaft. Boundary-Layer Meteorology 6 (1974) 107-127. All Rights Reserved Copyright 0 1974 by D. Reidel Publishing Company, Dordrecht-Holland* Following the established custom, we refer here to the variance spectrum of the surface displacement as the 'energy' spectrum. To convert later to genuine energy and momentum transfer rates, a factor p,,,g has to be added.

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Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

On the spectral dissipation of ocean waves due to white capping

Hasselmann

1974

Boundary-Layer Meteorol

395

203

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“…"Weather Reporter" and the wave spectra were prepared. This is one of the best cases to test a numerical model of ocean wave prediction, and used by many authors (BAER, 1963: PIERSON and TICK, 1965: DARBYSHIRE, 1961: WILSON, 1965: WALDEN, 1963: INOUE, 1967: BARNETT, 1968: GELCI et al, 1970. The present numerical model was also tested in this case.…”

Section: The Effect Of Opposing Windsmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Accordingly, the numerical models proposed by several authors which are based on Equation (1) have different forms of the function F associated with their physical interpretation and analysis of the observations (BARNETT, 1968: INOUE, 1967: GELCI et al, 1957: PIERSON et al, 1966: EWING, 1971). These are reviewed by GELCI and DEVILLAZ (1970).…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%