“…The characteristics of such shoaling, non-linear waves have been modeled by many authors (e.g. Bretschneider, 1960;Latoine, 1960;Skjelbreia and Hendrickson, 1961;Chappelear, 1962;Latoine, 1962Latoine, , 1965Ippen, 1966;Peregrine, 1972;Cokelet, 1977;Phillips, 1977;Fenton, 1985;Chakrabarti, 1987;Fenton, 1988;Dean and Dalrymple, 1991;Mei, 1991). However, the simplified but fully integrated equations of Le Roux (2007aRoux ( ,b, 2008a are used here, because they eliminate the discrepancies produced when using different wave theories for different water depths.…”