Longitudinal distribution of slope and sediment characteristics in headland-bay beaches in Cádiz, Spain

Polo, Silvia Rodríguez; Río, Laura Del; Benavente, Javier

doi:10.2112/si85-062.1

Cited by 3 publications

(4 citation statements)

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“…Beach slopes, more easily, can also be calculated based on a combination of topographic and bathymetric data [10,25,54]. If the combined data is available, the transect on the beach of interest can then be ordered so that the elevation value is obtained with respect to the cross-shore horizontal distance.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Several other studies that attempted this were also considered not to provide a clear enough relationship between sediment grain size and beach slope [24][25][26]. The use of assumptions such as uniform bed sediment grain size and lack of consideration of wave variability conditions were considered too tight and not reliable enough so that they indicated disagreement with the data of several measurements [11].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Beach slope distribution mapping using UAV in the Cirebon coastal area

Abdurrahman¹,

Pratyaksa²,

Suprijo

et al. 2021

E3S Web Conf.

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The beach slope is usually estimated using the conventional ground survey, causing the availability of this parameter data to be limited in some areas. Meanwhile, this parameter is considered crucial in the study of shoreline changes and coastal area protection as well as other coastal morphodynamic research. The aim of this study is to demonstrate an efficient technique to calculate the beach slope as well as its distribution in an area. In the daily intertidal period, the beach profile is assumed to be a static planar beach state which does not change due to the insignificant effect of erosion and accretion process. First, the shoreline data set was delineated from the tidal-varied orthomosaic using the UAV. The beach slope is then calculated by comparing the difference in tide level with the difference in the horizontal distance of shoreline points along a cross-shore transect at different times. The utilization of UAV allows mapping the shoreline in an area in several different tidal conditions, allowing the distribution of the beach slope also be mapped. This technique was then applied in the Cirebon Coastal Area and found an average beach slope of 0.105 with 0.100 being the slope class with the highest number of distributions. It was also found that due to the presence of mangroves and coastal structures, no slope conditions dominated this area. The result of beach slope calculation using this technique shows suitability with other studies and reveals UAVs’ potential in mapping the beach slope distribution more efficiently.

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Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Beach slope distribution mapping using UAV in the Cirebon coastal area

Abdurrahman¹,

Pratyaksa²,

Suprijo

et al. 2021

E3S Web Conf.

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“…We consider different cases for β: β lc : Locally observed, time‐invariant beach face slope. We used the data set of Barboza and Defeo (2015) and complemented it with a literature search (Almar et al, 2019; Bascom , 1951; Bujalesky , 2007; Carranza‐Edwards et al, 1998; Carrasco et al, 2009; Cesaraccio et al, 2004; Cuevas et al, 2010; Díaz‐Sánchez et al, 2014; Isla & Bujalesky, 2005; Ivamy & Kench, 2006; Karunarathna et al , 2016; Lefebvre et al, 2014; Maurer & Johnson, 2017; Norcross et al, 2002; Pino & Jaramillo, 1992; Poulos et al, 2013; Reis & Gama, 2009; Rodríguez‐Polo et al, 2018; Sénéchal, 2017; S06). Foreshore beach slopes are provided for 308 beaches worldwide (Figure 1a), ranging from 0.005 to 0.20, with a median value of 0.04 and a mean value of 0.055. β gc : Globally constant, time‐invariant beach face slope.…”

Section: Methods and Datamentioning

confidence: 99%

Contribution of Wave Setup to Projected Coastal Sea Level Changes

et al. 2020

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Along open coasts, wind waves are a key driver of coastal changes and can be major contributors to coastal hazards. Wind wave characteristics are projected to change in response to climate change, notably due to changes in atmospheric circulation patterns and the associated surface winds. Here, a first‐order estimate of projected 20‐yr mean wave setup changes, excluding extreme events and subannual variability, is provided for sandy beaches along most of the world's coastline over the middle and end of the 21st century. Calculations are based on an ensemble of wave model projections under the representative concentration pathways (RCP) 8.5 and on empirical formulations for wave setup. Projected wave setup changes are compared to other contributors currently accounted for in regional sea level projections to extend existing projections of 21st century coastal sea level changes. Projected wave setup changes exhibit a clear spatial heterogeneity and mostly average out at global scale. However, at regional or local scale, wave setup changes are a small yet nonnegligible contributor to total coastal sea level 20‐yr mean changes (which include global mean sea level rise, GMSLR) over the middle and end of the 21st century. Wave setup can be a substantial contributor to local departures of coastal sea level changes from GMSLR. Wave setup changes should therefore be included in projections of regional patterns of coastal sea level changes. The reported long‐term changes in wave setup also advocate for the inclusion of nonstationary wave contributions to projected regional patterns of coastal sea level changes, including for studies on extreme events.

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“…The first approach to headland bay beaches, logarithmic bays and crenulated bays was realized by Halligan (1906 in Ref. [1]), [2][3][4][5][6][7], and recently by [8][9][10][11]. The concept of bays as units for analysis in coastline territories and the theories related to headland bay beaches are particularly important for the comprehension of the geodynamic processes of the Chilean coastline [12], due to the geographical position of the country in the subduction zones of the South-American and Nazca plates, involving a dynamic tectonic movement along the Chilean and western South-America coastal configuration.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Current Geodynamics and Evolutionary Trends of a Headland Bay Beach System in the Semi-Arid Coast of Chile

Soto¹,

Cabello²,

Arriagada-González³

2021

Coastal Environments

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The Chilean coast is controlled by the tectonics and structure, generating an irregular coastal landscape, with bays, marine terraces, sandy and gravel beaches, sand dune fields and Andean slopes, forming some mega cliffs that are attacked by waves. The Chilean coastline is shaped by headland bay beaches, with a dynamic coast modeled by south-western winds and south–north longshore current. We analyzed the case of the Coquimbo mega headland bay beach, which consists of four headland bay beaches. A methodological study was carried out on the morphometric parameters of the shoreline and the types of beaches dominated by waves along with geomorphological analysis of the coastal zone. We observed a mass transfer process from south to north. The northern sections of the bays are the places with the densest sand dune fields. This concentration of dunes occurs in each bay individually and in the mega bay as well. The sedimentary supply comes from Andean catchments to the shoreline and is transported and reworked by the longshore current to the northern area, where a huge sand field dune has developed, 120 km away from the mouth of Limarí River, the most southern catchment in the study area. In the mega bay, the current trend is a continuous sedimentary supply, despite the semi-arid conditions and the extreme drought that has affected the area since 2011. The study area is also a popular destination in Chile for beach tourism and is a place of interest for the mining industry.

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Longitudinal distribution of slope and sediment characteristics in headland-bay beaches in Cádiz, Spain

Cited by 3 publications

References 0 publications

Beach slope distribution mapping using UAV in the Cirebon coastal area

Beach slope distribution mapping using UAV in the Cirebon coastal area

Contribution of Wave Setup to Projected Coastal Sea Level Changes

Current Geodynamics and Evolutionary Trends of a Headland Bay Beach System in the Semi-Arid Coast of Chile

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