<p>Efficacy of a Dermocosmetic Serum Combining Bakuchiol and Vanilla Tahitensis Extract to Prevent Skin Photoaging in vitro and to Improve Clinical Outcomes for Naturally Aged Skin</p>

Abstract

Background: Skin aging is characterized by slacking and loss of density, especially under ultraviolet (UV) radiation exposure. Objective: To investigate the beneficial effects of a combination containing bakuchiol (BK) and vanilla tahitensis extract (VTE) to prevent skin photoaging in vitro and to improve clinical outcomes for naturally aged skin. Materials and Methods: Human dermal fibroblasts were treated with active compounds, exposed to an acute dose of UVA and analyzed by confocal microscopy: actin network for morphology, interleukin-8 (IL-8) for inflammation and p16 for senescence. Human skin was used to evaluate chronic UVA-induced glycosaminoglycan (GAG) loss and to assess the benefit of topical application of a BK+VTE serum (Alcian blue staining). An open-label clinical trial was conducted in women applying the serum twice daily for 56 days (n=43). Skin remodeling was assessed by FaceScan ®. Firmness was evaluated through Dynaskin ® and clinical scoring. Skin radiance was also rated on standardized full-face photographs. Results: UVA induced a significant increase in IL-8 and p16 expression and marked morphological changes in fibroblasts. Treatment with BK or VTE alone prevented both actin network alteration and IL-8 upregulation. Interestingly, BK+VTE demonstrated synergistic protection against IL-8 and p16 overexpression. Serum application prevented GAG loss at the dermo-epidermal junction and increased dermal GAG in UVA-exposed skin explants. In the clinical trial, face ptosis was reduced by 11% on average for 26 responsive subjects and up to 23%. Depth of skin deformation was also reduced by 24% on average for 30 responsive subjects and up to 30%. This firming effect was confirmed by clinical scoring. Radiance was significantly improved by 29% on average for 33 responsive subjects. The serum demonstrated good tolerance/safety. Conclusion: BK+VTE combination demonstrated anti-aging efficacy and might provide a substantial benefit in the daily care of naturally aged skin in women, through their synergistic effect on inflammaging and senescence.

Applications of bakuchiol in dermatology: Systematic review of the literature

“…Actin network was evaluated with confocal microscopy, levels of IL‐8 and P‐16 expression were measured for inflammation and senescence. BAK alone prevented both actin network alteration and IL‐8 upregulation, while BK+VTE demonstrated synergistic protection against IL‐8 and p16 overexpression 10 . Also, an open‐label clinical trial was conducted in women applying this serum twice daily for 56 days, were skin remodeling, firmness, and radiance improved at the end of the trial 10 …”

Repurposing INCI-registered compounds as skin prebiotics for probiotic Staphylococcus epidermidis against UV-B

“…LCC is an ester obtained from the reaction of the coconut alcohol-derived fatty acids with a mixture of caprylic acid and capric acid 38 . Both caprylic acid and capric acid, as medium-chain fatty acids, can be extracted from coconut oil and have been used as ingredients for skincare formulation to protect against UV radiation 39 , 40 . It has been reported that addition of caprylic acid into the fermentation process enhanced acetate production 41 .…”

Bakuchiol and its pharmacological benefits

“…62 It also works synergistically with other natural compounds to reduce inflammation and protect and maintain naturally aging skin. 10 This higher tolerability allows bakuchiol to be an effective anti-aging treatment for people of all skin types. Furthermore, it can also be formulated for people with hyperpigmentation historically perceived as less tolerant of retinol.…”

“…Bakuchiol can be combined with Vanilla tahitensis extract to inhibit skin photoaging and cause improvement in skin barrier function and elasticity, increasing cellular turnover and improving signs of aging. 10 A study by Bacqueville et al used an in vitro skin model made of human dermal fibroblasts treated with the compounds alone or in combination, after which they were exposed to an acute dose of UVA. Exposure to UVA-induced significant morphological changes and increased IL-8 and p16 expression in the control model (no treatment), suggesting inflammation and senescence.…”

“…5 Recent studies have focused on bakuchiol and its therapeutic effects, showing promise as a multi-targeting therapeutic agent. [6][7][8][9][10][11][12][13] Bakuchiol is a naturally occurring prenylated phenolic isoprenoid (Figure 1). It is a type of meroterpene with a chiral tetraalkylated (all-carbon) quaternary center.…”