Major coastal impact induced by a 1000-year storm event

Fruergaard, Mikkel; Andersen, Thorbjørn Joest; Johannessen, Peter N.; Nielsen, Lars Henrik; Pejrup, Morten

doi:10.1038/srep01051

Cited by 59 publications

(64 citation statements)

References 33 publications

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“…). Because of the relatively well‐constrained sea‐level history of the Wadden Sea, this method allows more accurate interpretations of depositional environments to be carried out (Fruergaard et al ., , , ,b).…”

Section: Methodsmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…The interaction between spring tide and strong storms may cause the sea‐level to rise up to ca 5 m above mean sea‐level (Aagaard et al ., ). An extraordinary high level of ca 6·15 m occurred during a severe storm in the year 1634 has been described both historically and scientifically (Fruergaard et al ., ). The southern North Sea has been influenced by tides for at least the last 8000 years (Van Der Molen & Van Dijck, ; Van Der Molen & De Swart, ; Hijma et al ., ; Hijma & Cohen, ).…”

Section: Physical Settingmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Sedimentary architecture and depositional controls of a Holocene wave‐dominated barrier‐island system

et al. 2017

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Barrier‐island system evolution is controlled by internal and external forcing mechanisms, and temporal changes in these mechanisms may be recorded in the sedimentary architecture. However, the precise role of individual forcing mechanisms is rarely well understood due to limited chronological control. This study investigates the relative role of forcing conditions, such as antecedent topography, sea‐level rise, sediment supply, storms and climate changes, on the evolution of a Holocene wave‐dominated barrier‐island system. This article presents temporal reconstruction of the depositional history of the barrier‐island system of Rømø in the Wadden Sea in unprecedented detail, based on ground‐penetrating radar profiles, sediment cores, high‐resolution dating and palynological investigations, and shows that ca 8000 years ago the barrier island formed on a Pleistocene topographic high. During the initial phase of barrier evolution, the long‐term sea‐level rise was relatively rapid (ca 9 mm year−1) and the barrier was narrow and frequently overwashed. Sediment supply kept pace with sea‐level rise, and the barrier‐island system mainly aggraded through the deposition of a ca 7 m thick stack of overwash fans. Aggradation continued for ca 1700 years until sea‐level rise had decreased to <2 mm year−1. In the last ca 6000 years, the barrier prograded 4 to 5 km through deposition of a 10 to 15 m thick beach and shoreface unit, despite a long‐term sea‐level rise of 1 to 2 mm year−1. The long‐term progradation was, however, interrupted by a transgression between 4000 years and 1700 years ago. These results demonstrate that the large‐scale morphology of the Danish Wadden Sea shoreline influences the longshore sediment transport flux and the millennial‐scale dispersal of sediment along the shoreline. On decadal to centennial timescales, major storms induced intense beach and shoreface erosion followed by rapid recovery and progradation which resulted in a highly punctuated beach and shoreface record. Major storms contributed towards a positive sediment budget, and the sustained surplus of sediment was, and still is, instrumental in maintaining the aggradational–progradational state of the barrier island.

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Section: Methodsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Physical Settingmentioning

confidence: 99%

Sedimentary architecture and depositional controls of a Holocene wave‐dominated barrier‐island system

et al. 2017

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“…The upper shoreface has a mean slope of β = 0.009 and is often triple-barred; the bars are relatively low with gentle landward and seaward slopes and they exhibit consistent landward inter-annual bar migration, which is particularly realised during moderate to high wave energy conditions (Aagaard et al, 2004). The present configuration of Skallingen dates back to the early part of the 17 th century when a sandy barrier body was emplaced in the decades following the extreme storm surge of 1634 AD (Fruergaard et al, 2013). The nearshore 1756 T. AAGAARD AND A. KROON is typically dissipative due to the gently sloping shoreface, and sediment samples taken on several occasions since 1981 show that the mean grain size on the upper shoreface is M z = 150-200 microns.…”

Section: Estimated Barrier Accretion In Northwestmentioning

confidence: 97%

Decadal behaviour of a washover fan, Skallingen Denmark

Aagaard

Kroon

2019

Earth Surf Processes Landf

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In this study, the decadal evolution of a washover fan on the west coast of Denmark is examined from its initial generation in 1990 until 2015. Since its inception, the bare and flat washover fan surface has recovered and accreted slowly due to re‐activation by overwash during surges and due to aeolian activity and dune formation, stimulated by vegetation growth. The volume of sand on the washover has increased steadily at an average rate of about 23 m3/yr per unit length of shoreline, and a total of 175,000 m3 of sand is now deposited on the fan, while at the same time the shoreline has receded by some 250 m. The evolution can be divided into three stages: 1) An initiation phase when storm surge levels and energetic wave conditions caused a breach in the foredunes and overwash processes formed a washover fan with a relatively low elevation above mean sea level; 2) An initial recovery phase during which waves supplied sand to the fan during frequent overwash activity and winds transported this sand into marginal dunes surrounding the fan; and 3) A later recovery phase when the surface of the fan had accreted to a level where vegetation could survive and trap sediment into new foredune growth across the fan. The rate of accretion has been overall linear but scales with neither annual overwash frequency, nor with aeolian transport potential. Instead, the linear accretion is more closely related to the steady onshore migration of nearshore bars that weld to the beach and provide a sand supply for transfer to the fan. The fan evolution demonstrates the importance of washover fans in preserving barrier resilience during transgressional phases caused by increasing mean sea level. © 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.

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“…1a; Suanez et al, 2012) following a spring storm. Extreme storm events are responsible for erosion processes and over the course of a single extreme event, thick sediment deposition from the upper shoreface to the lower foreshore can occur (Fruergaard et al, 2013;Houser et al, 2008). They can also provoke erosive processes on the coast by offshore exportation of sand (Goff et al, 2004).…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 98%

Holocene formation and evolution of coastal dunes ridges, Brittany (France)

Vliët-Lanoé

Goslin

Hénaff

et al. 2015

Comptes Rendus. Géoscience

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International audienceHolocene coastal dune formation under a continuously rising sea level (SL) is an abnormal response to increasing storm frequency. The aim of this work is to understand the coastal sedimentary budget and the present-day sand starvation, controlled by climate and man. Dating in Brittany shows that Aeolian deposition initiated from ca. 4000 cal BP, with the slowing down of the SL rise. Pre-historical dunes appeared here from ca. 3000 cal BP, without SL regression. After, further building phases recycled the same stock of sands. Historical dunes I developed from ca. 350 AD. Major storms between 900 and 1200 AD resulted in the construction of washover coastal ridges, the Historical dunes II. A part of the sand was evacuated offshore. From ca. 1350 AD, the pre-existing ridges are reworked forming the Historical dunes III, leading to rapid coastal erosion and inland drift. Holocene dunes with a rising SL constitute a temporary anomaly, mostly forced by man, soon erased by storms in Brittany

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Major coastal impact induced by a 1000-year storm event

Cited by 59 publications

References 33 publications

Sedimentary architecture and depositional controls of a Holocene wave‐dominated barrier‐island system

Sedimentary architecture and depositional controls of a Holocene wave‐dominated barrier‐island system

Decadal behaviour of a washover fan, Skallingen Denmark

Holocene formation and evolution of coastal dunes ridges, Brittany (France)

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