Marine Ingredients for Sensitive Skin: Market Overview

Abstract

Marine ingredients are a source of new chemical entities with biological action, which is the reason why they have gained relevance in the cosmetic industry. The facial care category is the most relevant in this industry, and within it, the sensitive skin segment occupies a prominent position. This work analyzed the use of marine ingredients in 88 facial cosmetics for sensitive skin from multinational brands, as well as their composition and the scientific evidence that supports their efficacy. Marine ingredients were used in 27% of the cosmetic products for sensitive skin and included the species Laminaria ochroleuca, Ascophyllum nodosum (brown macroalgae), Asparagopsis armata (red macroalgae), and Chlorella vulgaris (microalgae). Carotenoids, polysaccharides, and lipids are the chemical classes highlighted in these preparations. Two ingredients, namely the Ascophyllum nodosum extract and Asparagopsis armata extracts, present clinical evidence supporting their use for sensitive skin. Overall, marine ingredients used in cosmetics for sensitive skin are proposed to reduce skin inflammation and improve the barrier function. Marine-derived preparations constitute promising active ingredients for sensitive skin cosmetic products. Their in-depth study, focusing on the extracted metabolites, randomized placebo-controlled studies including volunteers with sensitive skin, and the use of extraction methods that are more profitable may provide a great opportunity for the cosmetic industry.

Up-to-Date Overview of the Use of Natural Ingredients in Sunscreens

“…Some of the most important constituents of this brown algae are phlorotannins, phloroglucinol-based polyphenols that are responsible for the well-known antioxidant activity exhibited by A. nodosum [ 20 , 148 , 149 , 150 , 151 , 152 , 153 , 154 , 155 , 156 , 157 , 158 ]. This brown alga has been highlighted in previous studies as a very promising ingredient due to its antioxidant properties, both in formulations for anti-aging [ 43 ] and sensitive skin [ 159 ]. Regarding photoprotection studies, some examples include a study of the seasonal and yearly variations in phenolic contents and associated cosmetic activities of seven brown marine macroalgae, the five studied Fucales (including A. nodosum ) presented higher activities than Laminariales (IC 50 = 0.010–0.353 mg·mL −1 (DPPH assay) and EC 50 = 0.001–0.004 mg·mL −1 (FRAP assay)) with no significant differences between seasons or years for the different Fucales in either assay [ 20 ].…”

“…A. armata (Harvey, 1855) is a red seaweed that can be found on European coasts and in the Northeast Atlantic [ 159 ]. Besides photosynthetic pigments, their main bioactive ingredients include agar, sulfated polysaccharides (carrageenans and porphyrans), and MAAs [ 159 ].…”

“…A. armata (Harvey, 1855) is a red seaweed that can be found on European coasts and in the Northeast Atlantic [ 159 ]. Besides photosynthetic pigments, their main bioactive ingredients include agar, sulfated polysaccharides (carrageenans and porphyrans), and MAAs [ 159 ]. Two different studies aiming to screen selected red algae for the production of UV-screen substances, such as MAAs, identified shinorine at the highest concentration (about 80–85%), followed by palythine (17–20%) ( Figure 13 ) and finally asterina-330 presenting only traces [ 23 , 162 ].…”

“…Two different studies aiming to screen selected red algae for the production of UV-screen substances, such as MAAs, identified shinorine at the highest concentration (about 80–85%), followed by palythine (17–20%) ( Figure 13 ) and finally asterina-330 presenting only traces [ 23 , 162 ]. These low-molecular-weight water-soluble molecules present great potential as photoprotective and antioxidant ingredients since they can absorb UV radiation and disperse the absorbed energy as heat without generating reactive oxygen species (ROS) [ 159 ].…”

Evaluation of the Efficacy of an Ecobiological Dermo-Cosmetic Product to Help Manage and Prevent Relapses of Eyelid Atopic Dermatitis

“…38 Laminaria ochroleuca extract is a natural skin-soothing ingredient that reduces irritation-induced inflammation by boosting the skin's immune response. 39 The last ingredient, fructooligosaccharides, is a recognized prebiotic, which has been shown to restrict the growth of potentially harmful bacteria in favour of beneficial ones in vitro, therefore having a positive role in preserving or restoring a healthy skin microbiome. 40 In summary, the product was developed with an ecobiological approach.…”