Mass Spectrometric Examinations of Stratum corneum Lipid Models Exposed to Ultraviolet Irradiation

Trommer, Hagen; Plätzer, Manuela; Wolf, Ronni; Neubert, Reinhard H.H.

doi:10.1159/000072069

Cited by 10 publications

(9 citation statements)

References 23 publications

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“…We interpret this effect to be due to special conditions. The beneficial influence of additional antioxidants like ·-tocopherol is often discussed [25]. However, in our study, ascorbic acid itself, in the absence of ·-tocopherol, demonstrated a placebo-controlled antioxidant potential.…”

Section: Discussioncontrasting

confidence: 59%

Topical Activity of Ascorbic Acid: From in vitro Optimization to in vivo Efficacy

Raschke

Koop²,

Düsing³

et al. 2004

Skin Pharmacol Physiol

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We present here a new cosmetic formula system containing 3% ascorbic acid based on an optimized oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion. This formulation demonstrated a good long-term stability of the active ingredient and also of the emulsion itself. It could be deduced from in vitro release studies that this O/W emulsion enabled a better release of the hydrophilic active agent than an alternative W/O emulsion. By measuring the ultraweak photon emission, which is a well-established parameter for the oxidative stress in the skin, the high in vivo antioxidant capacity of 3% ascorbic acid was demonstrated after 1 week of product application. This placebo-controlled study also proved that ascorbic acid in an O/W cream reduced oxidative stress in human skin significantly better than the derivative sodium ascorbyl-2-phosphate, a more stable vitamin C replacement commonly used in cosmetic formulations. With increasing age, the number of papillae in the epidermal-dermal junction zone in human skin are reduced. This implies a possible consequence of reduced mechanical resistance of the skin and impaired supply of the epidermis with nutrients. In a 1-month placebo-controlled study on 25 human volunteers, a significant increase in the number of dermal papillae after application of the 3% ascorbic acid cream was demonstrated, using a confocal laser scanning microscope. Fine lines and wrinkles are a characteristic sign of aged and especially photo-aged skin. Application of 3% ascorbic acid in a 12-week placebo-controlled usage study indicated a significant reduction of facial wrinkles. Altogether, 3% ascorbic acid in a cosmetic O/W emulsion has been shown to be appropriately stable and to enable a good release of the active agent in vitro as a precondition for a high efficacy in vivo. Application in vivo resulted in a significant reduction of oxidative stress in the skin, an improvement of the epidermal-dermal microstructure and a reduction of fine lines and wrinkles in aged skin. These results were received within a relatively short period of time of product application.

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Section: Discussioncontrasting

confidence: 59%

Topical Activity of Ascorbic Acid: From in vitro Optimization to in vivo Efficacy

Raschke

Koop²,

Düsing³

et al. 2004

Skin Pharmacol Physiol

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“…To characterize differences in lipidomes among biological samples of interest, the relative intensities or areas given from mass spectrometers are only helpful as semi-quantitative values ( 11,12 ). Precise quantitative values of lipidomes of interest would also be desirable, especially in the case of evaluations of lipid dynamics in de MS has been employed for the analysis of CERs in human SC as follows: reversed-phase LC (RPLC)-ESI-MS ( 22,(30)(31)(32); ESI-MS ( 33,34 ); RPLC-thermospray-MS ( 35 ); and NPLC-APCI-MS (36)(37)(38)(39). However, those methods were not validated as quantitative methods for overall CER species in the SC, although some studies reported quantitative values based on unrealistic assumptions.…”

mentioning

confidence: 99%

Comprehensive quantification of ceramide species in human stratum corneum

Masukawa

Narita

Sato

et al. 2009

Journal of Lipid Research

211

150

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This article is available online at http://www.jlr.org novo pathways, such as alterations of some species of the targeted lipidomes into others. Similar to common quantitative analyses using direct MS or LC-MS that need authentic standards together with internal ones, quantitative lipidomics may also require a standard set of all lipid species targeted, because each lipid species has a different molar response in MS detection except for special cases. However, it is practically impossible to obtain all authentic species, including not only different even straight carbon chains but also odd and/or branched ones. To overcome such limitations, lipidomics researchers have contrived a novel procedure to quantify lipidomes comprehensively. Han and Gross ( 3 ) proposed a quantitative method for analyzing triglyceride molecular species using direct MS, which involves a procedure to calculate response factors for species that are not available as authentic materials, based on differences of the responses in the numbers of total carbons and double bonds among the species. For quantitative determination of phospholipid molecular species, Koivusalo et al. ( 4 ) utilized the following parameAbstract One of the key challenges in lipidomics is to quantify lipidomes of interest, as it is practically impossible to collect all authentic materials covering the targeted lipidomes. For diverse ceramides (CER) in human stratum corneum (SC) that play important physicochemical roles in the skin, we developed a novel method for quantifi cation of the overall CER species by improving our previously reported profi ling technique using normal-phase liquid chromatography-electrospray ionization-mass spectrometry (NPLC-ESI-MS). The use of simultaneous selected ion monitoring measurement of as many as 182 kinds of molecular-related ions enables the highly sensitive detection of the overall CER species, as they can be analyzed in only one SC-stripped tape as small as 5 mm × 10 mm. To comprehensively quantify CERs, including those not available as authentic species, we designed a procedure to estimate their levels using relative responses of representative authentic species covering the species targeted, considering the systematic error based on intra-/inter-day analyses. The CER levels obtained by this method were comparable to those determined by conventional thin-layer chromatography (TLC), which guarantees the validity of this method. , ceramide class consisting of non-hydroxy fatty acids and 4-sphingenines; ESI, electrospray ionization; LOD, limit of detection; LOQ, limit of quantifi cation; NPLC, normal-phase liquid chromatography; RPLC, reversed-phase liquid chromatography; RSD, relative standard deviation; SC, stratum corneum; SIM, selected ion monitoring; S/N, signal to noise; TLC, thinlayer chromatography

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“…Peaks at m/z 317, 299, 281 and 263 are also present in the spectrum due to the amine carbon chain fragment which undergoes three successive dehydrations as observed by Trommer et al. (23) for the phytosphingosine structure. No peaks were observed at higher molar masses, due to either the formation of new oxygenated molecules or to rearrangements.…”

mentioning

confidence: 55%

Effect of UVA or UVB Irradiation on Cutaneous Lipids in Films or in Solution

Merle¹,

Laugel

Baillet‐Guffroy

2010

Photochem & Photobiology

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The barrier function of the skin is largely due to the stratum corneum which is essentially composed of lipids. Different external factors, such as UV irradiation, affect this skin layer and are responsible for a destabilization of the supramolecular organization of its constituted lipids. In this work, mass spectrometry and infrared spectroscopy are combined to study the correlation between the formation of oxidative compounds by UV irradiation and the lipid organization. Experiments were carried out on unsaturated lipids in film or solution form, exposed to UVA or UVB irradiation. UV exposure leads to the formation of oxygenated entities in the case of lipids with an unsaturated fatty acid moiety, resulting in a decrease in their packing which is greater when the lipids are in solution. The packing decrease is even greater following UVB irradiation.

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Mass Spectrometric Examinations of Stratum corneum Lipid Models Exposed to Ultraviolet Irradiation

Cited by 10 publications

References 23 publications

Topical Activity of Ascorbic Acid: From in vitro Optimization to in vivo Efficacy

Topical Activity of Ascorbic Acid: From in vitro Optimization to in vivo Efficacy

Comprehensive quantification of ceramide species in human stratum corneum

Effect of UVA or UVB Irradiation on Cutaneous Lipids in Films or in Solution

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