Mass Spectrometry in Cosmetic Science: Advanced Ionization Techniques for Detecting Trace Molecules in or on Human Skin

Abstract

To provide safe and e ective products to customers in the cosmetic industry, mass spectrometry (MS) is an indispensable analytical tool. In addition to its outstanding sensitivity and speci city, the method is applicable to a wide variety of compounds, which makes it irreplaceable for the development of cosmetics, which requires the analysis of complex systems. Because most cosmetic products are applied directly to the skin and function as they are designed, monitoring the molecular compositions of endogenous or exogenous compounds in or on the skin is crucial to ensure the safety and e cacy of a cosmetic product. Recent advancements in MS and ionization techniques, such as MS imaging and ambient ionization, now provide access to richer and deeper molecular information with less time and e ort. is brief review discusses advanced ionization techniques that are currently used in the eld of cosmetic science using two examples, namely, the use of desorption electrospray ionization and zero-volt paperspray ionization to detect trace molecules in or on human skin.

Argireline: Needle‐Free Botox as Analytical Challenge

“…The following separation was then performed using reversed phase HPLC (RP‐HPLC), [32] ion pair RP‐HPLC, [33] or HILIC with UV or MS detection [34] . There are reports presenting the MALDI (matrix assisted laser desorption ionization) mass spectrometry, [35] and other surface‐sampling MS techniques, [36] as a convenient method to detect peptides in cosmetic products as well as directly on skin with limited sample pre‐treatment.…”

Lipidomics for translational skin research: A primer for the uninitiated

“…This allows the direct sampling of lipid ions from the skin tissue, without prior extraction, so that lipids can be analysed in situ . While direct ionisation techniques such as MALDI and DESI can be used for homogenised samples, they have also proved useful in providing spatial distribution information through skin imaging analysis . A full‐thickness skin biopsy can be sectioned onto a glass slide, and by placing the sample on a moving stage, the mass spectrometer samples ions as it performs spot‐to‐spot analysis, or rasters, across the skin tissue, allowing reconstruction of an image of the full‐thickness skin representing ion intensities .…”

“…[76] While direct ionisation techniques such as MALDI and DESI can be used for homogenised samples, they have also proved useful in providing spatial distribution information through skin imaging analysis. [26,[77][78][79][80] A full-thickness skin biopsy can be sectioned onto a glass slide, and by placing the sample on a moving stage, the mass spectrometer samples ions as it performs spot-to-spot analysis, or rasters, across the skin tissue, allowing reconstruction of an image of the full-thickness skin representing ion intensities. [81] For each pixel with given x and y coordinates, a mass spectrum is recorded with information on m/z and ion abundance.…”

Molecular Mapping of Sebaceous Squalene by Ambient Mass Spectrometry

“…Another AIMS, zero-volt paper spray ionization (zvPSI), was used to profile facial lipids collected as imprints onto a filter paper. 24,25 In this study, we use thermal desorption-electrospray ionization/mass spectrometry (TD-ESI/MS) to rapidly characterize sebaceous lipids. TD-ESI/MS is an AIMS technique that is particularly useful for characterizing thermally stable compounds such as lipids on sample surfaces.…”

“…For instance, Hiraoka et al applied sheath-flow probe electrospray ionization (sfPESI) to sebum on the forehead and detected a number of lipids. , This method uses a fine plastic capillary filled with a solvent to extract samples on the surface, and electrospray mass spectra are obtained by applying a high voltage to the metal needle inserted in the capillary. Another AIMS, zero-volt paper spray ionization (zvPSI), was used to profile facial lipids collected as imprints onto a filter paper. , In this study, we use thermal desorption-electrospray ionization/mass spectrometry (TD-ESI/MS) to rapidly characterize sebaceous lipids. TD-ESI/MS is an AIMS technique that is particularly useful for characterizing thermally stable compounds such as lipids on sample surfaces. − To perform rapid surface analysis, a sampling probe was used to collect analytes prior to their thermal desorption, electrospray ionization, and mass spectrometric detection.…”