The return of Macau to Chinese sovereignty in 1999 brought far-reaching change to Macau as a special administrative region (SAR). China's policy and plans for a revitalized Macau as a key urban node offers an opportunity to conceptualize a leading role for Macau as the pre-eminent recreational and tourist center in the dynamic and globally connected Pearl River Delta city-region. We examine and assess the new policies that have led to Las Vegas-style casinos bringing explosive growth in visitors, gambling revenues, and Macau's economy. New problems of corruption, crime, and social pathologies have appeared as well owing in part to the secretive VIP gambling centers for high rollers from the mainland. Has Macau met China's goals and expectations for a great tourist and recreational center? Our findings indicate a mixed record with more challenges emerging in the wake of China's recent anti-corruption campaign.