Measurement of Surface Waves from Subsurface Gage

Lee, Dong-Young; Wang, Hsiang

doi:10.1061/9780872624382.020

Cited by 19 publications

(20 citation statements)

References 2 publications

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“…We deployed the PTs on the tidal flat facing the monitored marsh (see Figure ), where current velocities are likely low and, hence, the linear wave theory can be used to estimate wave climate [ Bishop and Donelan , ; Jones and Monismith , ]. This is also in agreement with the recommendations of Lee and Wang [] and Bird [] for the measurement of wave climate both in intermediate and shallow water.…”

Section: Setup and Methodologiessupporting

confidence: 71%

Insights into lateral marsh retreat mechanism through localized field measurements

Bendoni

Mel

Solari

et al. 2016

Water Resources Research

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Deterioration of salt marshes may be due to several factors related to increased anthropic pressure, sea level rise, and erosive processes. While salt marshes can reach equilibrium in the vertical direction, adapting to sea level rise, they are inherently unstable in the horizontal direction. Marsh boundaries are characterized by scarps with bare sediment below the vegetated surface layer that can be easily removed by wave-induced erosion. In this work, we explore the different mechanisms involved in the erosion of marsh borders through the interpretation of field data. The analysis is based on a systematic field monitoring of a salt marsh in the Venice Lagoon subject to lateral erosion. Measurements included horizontal retreat of the scarp at various locations and wave height in front of the marsh during three storm surges. Continuous erosion and mass failures alternated during the observed period, leading to an average retreat up to 80 cm/yr. The data, collected roughly every month for 1.5 year, indicate that the linear relation that links the observed erosion rate to the impinging wave power exhibits a larger slope than that already estimated in literature on the basis of long-term surveys. Moreover, an increase in the gradient of erodibility is detected along the marsh scarp, due to the combined action of soil strengthening by vegetation on the marsh surface and the impact of wave breaking at the bank toe, which promote cantilever failures and increase the lateral erosion rate.

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Section: Setup and Methodologiessupporting

confidence: 71%

Insights into lateral marsh retreat mechanism through localized field measurements

Bendoni

Mel

Solari

et al. 2016

Water Resources Research

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“…Investigators have also attempted to improve the conversion of subsurface pressure data by considering higher order non-linear terms in the transfer function (e.g., Lee and Wang 1984;Hashimoto et al 1997). Other investigators have created and tested alternative empirically based transfer functions to transform the pressure signal (Wang et al 1986;Kuo and Chiu 1994;Tsai et al 2001).…”

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confidence: 99%

Measuring short‐period wind waves in a tidally forced environment with a subsurface pressure gauge

Jones

Monismith

2007

Limnology & Ocean Methods

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The ability of a current meter equipped with a standard pressure sensor to estimate the wave spectra of underdeveloped, fetch-limited waves (peak period ~2 s) in a tidally forced, estuarine environment was investigated. Instruments of this type were placed at four heights throughout the 2.5 m water column, and data were recorded synchronously with a co-located capacitance wave gauge. Linear wave theory was found to adequately describe the wave field in the lower frequency portion of the spectra (<0.6 Hz). The capacitance wave gauge data revealed that the equilibrium range of the spectrum could be modeled as f -4

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“…Experimental studies in [LW84], for instance, bear out this. (Note that the result in [Whi74] assumes that the integral of η j over one period is zero for all j = 1, 2, 3, .…”

Section: Stokes Wavesmentioning

confidence: 99%

On the recovery of traveling water waves with vorticity from the pressure at the bed

Hur

Livesay

2016

European Journal of Mechanics - B/Fluids

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Abstract. We propose higher-order approximation formulae recovering the surface elevation from the pressure at the bed and the background shear flow for small-amplitude Stokes and solitary water waves. They offer improvements over the pressure transfer function and the hydrostatic approximation. The formulae compare reasonably well with asymptotic approximations of the exact relation between the pressure at the bed and the surface wave in the zero vorticity case, but they incorporate the effects of vorticity through solutions of the Rayleigh equation. Several examples are discussed.

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Measurement of Surface Waves from Subsurface Gage

Cited by 19 publications

References 2 publications

Insights into lateral marsh retreat mechanism through localized field measurements

Insights into lateral marsh retreat mechanism through localized field measurements

Measuring short‐period wind waves in a tidally forced environment with a subsurface pressure gauge

On the recovery of traveling water waves with vorticity from the pressure at the bed

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