Mechanical characterization of curly hair: Influence of the use of nonconventional hair straightening treatments

Leite, Marcella Gabarra Almeida; Campos, Patrícia Maria Berardo Gonçalves Maia

doi:10.1111/srt.12368

Cited by 12 publications

(11 citation statements)

References 18 publications

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“…After the ban of formaldehyde as a straightener in several countries, GA became widely used in hair straightening products. According to the literature, GA would release formaldehyde when subjected to high temperatures [13,21,[26][27][28][29].…”

Section: Glutaraldehydementioning

confidence: 99%

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Straight to the Point: What Do We Know So Far on Hair Straightening?

Barreto

Weffort

Frattini³

et al. 2021

Skin Appendage Disord

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Background: Hair represents a valued aspect of human individuality. The possibility of having an easy to handle hairstyle and changing it from time to time promoted an increasing search for chemical hair transformations, including hair straightening. Hair straightening is the process used to convert curly into straight hair. Aims: This review aims to discuss hair straightening, addressing techniques, products, methods of application, consequences to hair shafts, recommendations on this topic, and the risks involving the safety of both the user and the performing professional. Methods and Results: The terms “straightening” AND “hair,” “straightening” AND “alopecia,” and “straightening” AND “human hair” were used to perform a literature search in MEDLINE through PubMed until July 15, 2020. We limited the search to articles available in English, considering those mentioning alternatives to straighten the hair. We had a total of 33 relevant articles. Conclusions: This article will help dermatologists to advise their patients, providing a more suitable orientation on how to get the best outcome without risking one’s safety.

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Section: Glutaraldehydementioning

confidence: 99%

“…Although there is no break in the disulfide bridges, there is a change in the shape of these bonds. These reactions, when associated with the heat, originate a bio-polymerized structure, straightening the hair [13,21,[26][27][28].…”

Section: Glutaraldehydementioning

confidence: 99%

Straight to the Point: What Do We Know So Far on Hair Straightening?

Barreto

Weffort

Frattini³

et al. 2021

Skin Appendage Disord

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“…Hydrolysable protein was quantified by modified Lowry protein assay using a Genesys10S ultraviolet visible spectrophotometer [25]. Oxidative damage was assessed by scanning-treated hair samples on a NICOLET iS5 ATR-FTIR for structural changes on hair morphology and measuring the absorbance of cysteic acid (product of oxidative damage) peak at 1040 cm −1 [14,26]. Peak deconvolution of ATR-ATR data was done using Gaussian function in ORIGIN 8 software [19,27].…”

Section: Analysis Of Hair Damage After Treatmentmentioning

confidence: 99%

Antioxidant extracts from Dicerocaryum senecioides as active ingredients in semi‐permanents and hair conditioners

Rambwawasvika

Dzomba

Gwatidzo

et al. 2021

Intern J of Cosmetic Sci

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Background Different hair types respond differently to cosmetic treatments; hence, many options ought to be availed to the consumer. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the use of antioxidant extract from Dicerocaryum senecioides as active alternatives in hair semi‐permanent waving and hair conditioning. Methods The antioxidant phytochemicals were first identified and isolated by thin‐layer chromatography (TLC) and spraying with revealing agents. The antioxidant potency was determined by DPPH antiradical scavenging and ferric reducing power methods. The extract was incorporated in two different formulations to make the extract perm (bio‐semi‐permanent) and the antioxidant hair conditioner (AC). The formulations had their performance examined for hair curling and conditioning on Asian and African hair types. Hair damage was assessed by scanning the surface of treated samples on an attenuated total reflectance–Fourier transform infrared spectrometer (ATR‐FTIR) and by quantifying lost protein on ultraviolet visible (UV‐Vis) spectrophotometer. Results The extract antioxidant had an IC50 of 26.54 ± 0.34 µg/ml exhibiting greater antioxidant potency compared to the controls quercetin (38.84 ± 0.12 µg/ml) and ascorbic acid (35.22 ± 0.07 µg/ml). The extract perm had a lower curling ability indicated by a perm set of 85.10 ± 3.92% and 81.35 ± 2.35% for Asian and African hairs, respectively, while commercial product, ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) had 96.05 ± 1.70% and 93.60 ± 2.21% for the same. The curling of hair with extract perm resulted in less oxidative damage with oxidative peak areas of 3.37 ± 0.09 and 3.71 ± 0.03 as well as lower protein losses of 4.72 ± 0.71 µg/mg and 5.62 ± 0.70 µg/mg on Asian and African hair samples, respectively. The application of AC reduced the oxidative damage peak areas of ATG and extract perm treated Asian hair samples by 1.15 and 0.48 units, respectively. AC was also effective in reducing damage caused by UV radiation on ATG‐treated samples by 1.06 units (African hair) and 1.09 units on Asian hair. Conclusion The results show antioxidant extracts from Dicerocryum senecioides as a promising and safer alternative for hair conditioning and semi‐permanent curling.

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“…The increase of maximum force needed to break the hair fiber after treatment suggests action on the internal structure of the hair fiber. 1,12,13 It was performed on the equipment TA XT Plus ® Texturometer (Stable Micro Systems). Twentyfive hair fiber from each hair sample was separated and attached to the machine.…”

Section: Tensile Testmentioning

confidence: 99%

Development of hair care formulations based on natural ingredients

Isnard¹,

Costa²,

Campos³

2019

Int J Phytocos Nat Ingred

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Introduction: The development of hair care cosmetic formulations with ingredients obtained from natural sources is a challenge since it can compromise the stability and performance of formulations. The search for innovative ingredients obtained from natural sources is important to overcome this challenge. In addition, the evaluation of the physicomechanical and sensorial proprieties, stability and effectiveness of hair formulations are fundamental to obtain formulations with good acceptance by consumers. In this context, the aim of this study was to develop and evaluate the stability, physical-mechanical, and sensorial properties, as well as the efficacy of hair care formulations based on natural ingredients. Methods: Shampoo and conditioner formulations containing natural ingredients such as hydrolyzed rice peptides and polysaccharides obtained from plants and biotechnological processes were developed. Stability, spreadability, hardness, texture profile, rheological behaviour and sensory properties of these formulations were evaluated. In addition, the efficacy of hair care formulations was assessed by break force, combability and brightness of hair samples. Results: Shampoo formulation containing hydrolyzed rice peptides had better results in the texture, hardness and spreadability parameters. Conditioner formulations with polysaccharides showed better performance in the tests. Regarding the hair effectiveness tests, all treatments increased the mechanical strength of the hair fiber as well as the strength in the combing test, but only shampoo formulation containing hydrolysed rice peptides increased the brightness of the hair. Moreover, the sensory analysis showed a correlation with the efficacy test by instrumental measurements. Conclusion: This study has a significant contribution since it showed that it is possible to develop stable and efficacy formulations with ingredients obtained from a natural source and the importance of the correlation between instrumental measurement data and sensory analysis.

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Mechanical characterization of curly hair: Influence of the use of nonconventional hair straightening treatments

Cited by 12 publications

References 18 publications

Straight to the Point: What Do We Know So Far on Hair Straightening?

Straight to the Point: What Do We Know So Far on Hair Straightening?

Antioxidant extracts from Dicerocaryum senecioides as active ingredients in semi‐permanents and hair conditioners

Development of hair care formulations based on natural ingredients

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