Today, the 38th Oba of Benin, Omo N'Oba N'Edo Uku Akpolokpolo, is the traditional ruler of some 2 million Edo‐speaking peoples whose homelands are in southwestern Nigeria. A tropical forest kingdom, in medieval times it expanded to dominate other ethnic groups to the east beyond the Niger River, and to the west beyond Lagos. In 1897 a British military expedition ended five hundred years of indigenous and independent rule. Benin City, the Palace, and the Oba (restored to the throne in 1914) continued to be the focal points of the culture throughout the colonial period that lasted until 1960. As part of the Western Region, and later as capital of post colonial Midwest State, Benin City and the surrounding territory encompassed a number of ethnic groups. Within the boundaries of modern Edo State, Benin City is home to many Igbos, Yorubas, Etsakos, Itsekiris, Hausas, Europeans, and others. This pluralistic population in Benin City and elsewhere accommodates each other more easily than they did in the last century; friction nowadays is most often the outcome of new groups moving onto lands held by local villagers.
The Oba's Palace in the heart of Benin City, capital of Edo State, Federal Republic of Nigeria, occupies a site dated to the 13th century, and possibly dates to the 11th century (Connah 1975). Benin expanded in the early 16th century with the aid of Portuguese mercenaries and foreign guns. To the north and elsewhere over the centuries the Benin's warred with their neighbors and exacted tribute. Like their conquests, their fortunes ebbed and rose under different kings (obas) who ruled up to the end of the 19th century. The 1950s census reported Benin City's population at about 50,000. The 1990s national census reported a pluralistic population of some 200,000 people, showing the city's growth and continued diversity.