Modeling Storm Impacts on Beaches, Dunes and Barrier Islands

Abstract

A new nearshore numerical model approach to assess the natural coastal response during time-varying storm and hurricane conditions, including dune erosion, overwash and breaching, is validated with a series of analytical, laboratory and field test cases. Innovations include a non-stationary wave driver with directional spreading to account for wave-group generated surf and swash motions and an avalanching mechanism providing a smooth and robust solution for slumping of sand during dune erosion. The model performs well in different situations including dune erosion, overwash and breaching with specific emphasis on swash dynamics, avalanching and 2DH effects; these situations are all modelled using a standard set of parameter settings. The results show the importance of infragravity waves in extending the reach of the resolved processes to the dune front. The simple approach to account for slumping of the dune face by avalanching makes the model easily applicable in two dimensions and applying the same settings good results are obtained both for dune erosion and breaching.

Managing coastal environments under climate change: Pathways to adaptation

“…Fig. 7 shows the dune/beach profile response at different locations selected for testing the design using a modified XBEACH model (Roelvink et al, 2009). The parameters of the model have been calibrated with similar dissipative beaches in the neighbourhood (Gracia et al, 2013a).…”

Online Operational Early Warning System Prototypes to Forecast Coastal Storm Impacts (Cews)

“…In MICORE the used morphological modelling techniques were based on the open source XBeach model, which has undergone extensive testing at a variety of sites Van Dongeren et al 2009a) including a validation for all study sites (Van Dongeren et al 2009b). As described in Roelvink et al (2009), the model solves coupled 2DH equations for wave propagation, flow, sediment transport and bottom changes, for varying (spectral) wave and flow boundary conditions. Since each field site represents unique topographic and environmental conditions, this enabled the functionality of the model under various circumstances to be tested for broader use throughout Europe and worldwide.…”

Perfil de playas sustentadas : estudio hidrodinámico y experimental : directrices de diseño

“…Los modelos numéricos de evolución de perfil de playa (Larson et al 1999;Wamsley et al, 2002;Roelvink et al, 2009), a pesar de ser capaces de tratar con la condición de contorno impuesta por la presencia de fondos no erosionables y de simular la transmisión del oleaje en un dique sumergido de baja cota, producen respuestas razonables bajo condiciones erosivas del oleaje incidente, pero sin embargo adolecen de producir respuestas poco realistas cuando las playas se ven sometidas al ataque de oleajes de bonanza.…”

“…Resultados a escala de prototipo. Fuente: Musumeci et al, 2012 estudiaron la morfodinámica de esta playa por medio del modelo numérico XBeach (Roelvink et al, 2009), comparando los resultados obtenidos con los datos de seguimiento de la playa disponibles.…”

“…XBeach es un modelo de código abierto cuyo propósito es el análisis morfodinámico de las zonas costeras desarrollado por Roelvink et al (2009) que resuelve simultáneamente el equilibrio temporal de la acción del oleaje, las ecuaciones de energía del roller, las ecuaciones no lineales de oleaje en aguas someras de masa y cantidad de movimiento (momentum), y calcula la morfodinámica del fondo a escala de grupos de ondas.…”