Modeling the Morphological Impacts of Coastal Storms

Dongeren, Ap van; Roelvink, Dano; McCall, Robert; Nederhoff, Kees; Rooijen, Arnold van

doi:10.1002/9781118937099.ch10

Cited by 10 publications

(18 citation statements)

References 69 publications

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“…Quataert () also observed an underprediction of runup extent with XBeach applied on a smooth reef flat with a reflective beachface, geomorphologically similar to our study area, even if the nearshore water levels were correctly predicted by the model. This issue could be solved by the use of the more realistic but time consuming non‐hydrostatic mode in Xbeach, allowing to simulate short wave runup and overwash (Van Dongeren et al, ).…”

Section: Resultsmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…XBeach (D. Roelvink et al, ) is a coupled hydro‐ and morphodynamic model that simulates coastal processes and variability in different types of environment (e.g., sandy, gravel, reefs, vegetated, urbanised) (Van Dongeren, Roelvink, McCall, Nederhoff, & Van Rooijen, ). The model was created to predict storm impacts on longshore‐complex beaches (D. Roelvink, Mccall, Mehvar, Nederhoff, & Dastgheib, ), including swash, collision, overwash, and inundation (Sallenger, ).…”

Section: Methodsmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…XBeach provides a 2DH mode that allows process computation over large area covering as much as 10 km × 10 km (Van Dongeren et al, ). However, 2DH large‐scale flood modelling requires extensive computational time, the latter being exponentially correlated with model complexity (Pearson, Storlazzi, van Dongeren, Tissier, & Reniers, ).…”

Section: Methodsmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Multihazard simulation for coastal flood mapping: Bathtub versus numerical modelling in an open estuary, Eastern Canada

David

Baudry

Bernatchez

et al. 2018

J Flood Risk Management

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Funding informationFonds Québécois de la recherche sur la nature et les technologies; Québec Ministry of Public Security Coastlines along the St. Lawrence Estuary and Gulf, Eastern Canada, are under increasing risk of flooding due to sea level rise and sea ice shrinking. Efficient and validated regional-scale coastal flood mapping approaches that include storm surges and waves are hence required to better prepare for the increased hazard. This paper compares and validates two different flood mapping methods: numerical flood simulations using XBeach and bathtub mapping based on total water levels, forced with multihazard scenarios of compound wave and water level events. XBeach is validated with hydrodynamic measurements. Simulations of a historical storm event are performed and validated against observed flood data over ã 25 km long coastline using multiple fit metrics. XBeach and the bathtub method correctly predict flooded areas (66 and 78%, respectively), but the latter overpredicts the flood extent by 36%. XBeach is a slightly more robust flood mapping approach with a fit of 51% against 48% for the bathtub maps. Deeper floodwater by~0.5 m is expected with the bathtub approach, and more buildings are vulnerable to a 100-year flood level. For coastal management at regional-scale, despite similar flood extents with both flood mapping approaches, results suggest that numerical simulati on with XBeach outperforms bathtub flood mapping.

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Section: Resultsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Methodsmentioning

confidence: 99%

See 1 more Smart Citation

Multihazard simulation for coastal flood mapping: Bathtub versus numerical modelling in an open estuary, Eastern Canada

David

Baudry

Bernatchez

et al. 2018

J Flood Risk Management

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“…Most overwash validation work has been limited to comparisons of morphological changes (e.g., Lindemer et al, 2010;McCall et al, 2010;De Vet et al, 2015;Muller et al, 2017), and only a few studies have demonstrated XBeach's ability to reproduce hydrodynamic processes (McCall et al, 2014 andAlmeida et al, 2017 on gravel barriers and Baumann et al 2017 on a sandy barrier). Many experimental results have already been collected, but field data of storm events, with well-documented pre-existing conditions, hydrodynamic boundary conditions of waves, wind and surge, and the storm morphological impact measured directly after the storm, are still needed to validate models on the prototype scale (van Dongeren et al, 2017).…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Field measurements and hydrodynamic modelling to evaluate the importance of factors controlling overwash

Matias

Carrasco

Loureiro

et al. 2019

Coastal Engineering

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Overwash hydrodynamic datasets are mixed in quality and scope, being difficult to obtain due to fieldwork experimental limitations. Nevertheless, these measurements are crucial to develop reliable models to predict overwash. Aiming to overcome such limitations, this work presents accurate fieldwork data on overwash hydrodynamics, further exploring it to model overwash on a low-lying barrier island. Fieldwork was undertaken on Barreta Island (Portugal) in December 2013, during neap tides and under energetic conditions, with significant wave height reaching 2.6 m. During approximately 4 hours, more than 120 shallow overwash events were measured with a video-camera, a pressure transducer and a current-meter. This high-frequency fieldwork dataset includes runup, overwash number, depth and velocity. Fieldwork data along with information from literature were used to implement XBeach model in non-hydrostatic mode (wave-resolving). The baseline model was tested for six verification cases; the model was able to predict overwash in five. Based in performance metrics and the verification cases, it was considered that the Barreta baseline overwash model is a reliable tool for the prediction of overwash hydrodynamics. The baseline model was then forced to simulate overwash under different hydrodynamic conditions (waves and lagoon water level) and morpho-sedimentary settings (nearshore topography and beach grain-size), within the range of values characteristic for the study area. Based on this study, the order of importance of factors controlling overwash predictability in the study area are: 1 st) wave height (more than wave period) can promote overwash 3-4 times more intense than the one recorded during fieldwork; 2 nd) nearshore bathymetry, particularly shallower submerge bars, can promote an average decrease of about 30% in overwash; 3 rd) grain-size, finer sediment produced an 11% increase in overwash due to reduced infiltration; and 4 th) lagoon water level, only negligible differences were evidenced by changes in the lagoon level. This implies that for model predictions to be reliable, accurate wave forecast are necessary and topo-bathymetric configuration needs to be monitored frequently.

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“…These effects are the integrated consequences of two main storm-induced coastal hazards: inundation and erosion. In this context, an accurate assessment of the magnitude, location and extension of these hazards is becoming an essential part of the risk management process (e.g., Ciavola et al [4,5]; Van Dongeren et al [6], Jimenez et al [7]; Plomaritis et al [8], Harley et al [9]) and, in this sense, the use of process-oriented models to forecast storm-induced morphodynamic changes under given scenarios is now standard (e.g., Roelvink et al, [10]; McCall, [11]; Van Dongeren et al [12] and references therein, Dissanayake et al [13]). Most of the studies on testing state-of-art morphodynamic process-based models have addressed cases characterized by straight coastlines and gentle slopes (i.e., conditions close to the comfort zone of the models) (e.g., McCall, [11]; Harter and Figlus [14]).…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Sensitivity of Storm-Induced Hazards in a Highly Curvilinear Coastline to Changing Storm Directions. The Tordera Delta Case (NW Mediterranean)

Sanuy

Jiménez

2019

Water

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Extreme coastal storms, especially when incident in areas with densely urbanized coastlines, are one of the most damaging forms of natural disasters. The main hazards originating from coastal storms are inundation and erosion, and their magnitude and extent needs to be accurately assessed for effective management of coastal risk. The use of state-of-art morphodynamic process-based models is becoming standard, with most being applied to straight coastlines with gentle slopes. In this study, the XBeach model is used to assess the coastal response of a curvilinear sensitive deltaic coast with coarse sediment and steep slopes (intermediate-reflective conditions). The tested hypothesis is that changes in wave direction may cause large variations in the magnitude of storm-induced hazards. The model is tested against field data available for the Sant Esteve Storm (December 2008), obtaining an overall BSS (Brier Skill Score) score on the emerged morphological response of 0.68. Later, the 2008 event is used as baseline scenario to create synthetic events covering the range from NE to S. The obtained results show that storm-induced hazards along a highly curvilinear coast are very sensitive to changes in wave direction. Therefore, even under climate scenarios of relatively steady storminess, a potential shift in wave direction may significantly change hazard conditions and thus, need to be accounted for in robust damage risk assessments.

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Modeling the Morphological Impacts of Coastal Storms

Cited by 10 publications

References 69 publications

Multihazard simulation for coastal flood mapping: Bathtub versus numerical modelling in an open estuary, Eastern Canada

Multihazard simulation for coastal flood mapping: Bathtub versus numerical modelling in an open estuary, Eastern Canada

Field measurements and hydrodynamic modelling to evaluate the importance of factors controlling overwash

Sensitivity of Storm-Induced Hazards in a Highly Curvilinear Coastline to Changing Storm Directions. The Tordera Delta Case (NW Mediterranean)

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