“…Typical breaking waves were generated and measured with the wave tank facility instruments (Chen et al, 2008). The wave conditions used for the model input included: 1) spilling breaking wave, H = 12 cm, f = 0.85 Hz, followed by f = 0.48 Hz; and 2) plunging breaking wave, H = 15 cm, f = 0.85 Hz, followed by f = 0.5 Hz.…”