Modelling Vertical Variation of Turbulent Flow Across a Surf Zone Using Swash

Abstract

This paper presents the application of the open source non-hydrostatic wave-flow model SWASH to propagation of irregular waves in a barred surf zone, and the model results are discussed by comparing against an extensive laboratory data set. This study focus not only on wave transformation in the surf zone, but also on the numerical prediction of undertow and vertical distribution of turbulence levels under broken waves. Present simulations demonstrate the overall predictive capabilities of the model in computing breaking surf zone waves.

Non-Hydrostatic Wave Modeling in Partly Sheltered Harbor Basins

“…NLSW-type models like SWASH conserve mass and momentum. A key component of such models is the inclusion of the non-hydrostatic pressure allowing the modelling of many other phenomena like non-linear triad and quadruplet wave-wave interactions, dispersion, surf beat, wave breaking (Smit et al, 2013), rip-currents and turbulence structure (Zijlema, 2014). By dividing the water depth into a number of vertical layers, the vertical structure of the flow can be resolved, thereby improving the dispersion characteristics of wave propagation.…”