Multidimensional analysis for fabric drapability

Abstract

This study analyzed fabric drapability in one, two, and three dimensions to provide an assessment method reflecting real conditions. One-dimensional analysis of drapability involved observing the fabric movement by reciprocating motion. The movement appeared differently depending on the fabric characteristics, and the shape and location of the node showed differently, which were considered to be influenced by the weight of the sample along with the drape coefficient. Two-dimensional analysis identified the significant factors for the drape information. This examination confirmed that, even if drape factors were similar, differences in draped shape were observed based on the factors related to node shapes. Three-dimensional analysis, using a 3D scanner, involved the use of the mean distances between draped samples and the standard truncated cone, their standard deviation, and the coefficient of variation. The coefficient of variation was high in the groups wherein the shape of the drape was irregular. In the 3D analysis, the distances between samples and the standard truncated cone were expressed in colors to intuitively deliver the drape information. To determine a factor that could indicate drapability among the factors derived from each dimension, the existing drape coefficient was employed for correlation analysis. Three pairs of samples with similar drape coefficients but different drape shapes were selected to verify the above results. In conclusion, one-dimensional node location, two-dimensional standard deviation of node severity, and three-dimensional coefficient of variation were shown to effectively demonstrate the drape characteristic that the drape coefficient could not indicate.

Development of a fabric classification system using drapability and tactile characteristics

“…Fabric drapability is measured objectively by obtaining numerical values and subjectively by expert sensory evaluation. The objective measurement method for drapability typically involves calculating the drape coefficient, which uses the characteristic of a circular fabric draping over a support (Chu et al, 1950;Shin & Yun, 2023). A larger drape coefficient indicates a stiffer silhouette, while a smaller value means a drapery silhouette (Kenkare & May-Plumlee, 2005).…”