In 1903, a Bengali poet named Najir Ali published a thirteen-page poem called Reṅguner Kābýakabitā, which might be (very) loosely translated as "Ballad of Rangoon. " 1 In this lively composition, Najir Ali related his experiences of the Burmese port city (now Yangon), evocatively describing shipyards and sweet shops, and passionately recounting the trials of seductive women and the tribulations of bloody riots. He told his tale in a specific dialect of Bengali, known as Musulmāni or Dobhaṣī Bāṅglā, a form of the language that lent itself to Islamicate allusions and vocabularies drawn from Arabic and Persian (D'Hubert 2018b; Bose 2014). Although it was written in the Bengali script, with letters proceeding left to right, the pages of the book were arranged right to left, as a self-conscious gesture to the conventions of the Islamic book. British colonial officials collected many examples of this kind of book-often called puthi-and one copy of Najir Ali's ballad was bound and archived in the India Office collections and is now in the British Library. At some later stage, a curator who was unfamiliar with puthi publishing practices "restored" the book and fixed the central portion of pages upside down. 2 These upside-down pages serve as a helpful reminder that Najir Ali's work defies easy categorization. The spellings are flexible, and the language alternates between global, multilingual registers and highly local colloquialisms. The author was a poet and songwriter, but called himself ṭeṇḍal, equivalent to "bosun's mate" in the idiom of the lascars (South Asian seamen; Dixon 1980,