Natural Dyes from Indigoid‐Rich Plants: An Overview

Yusuf, Mohd; Islam, Siraj Ul

doi:10.1002/9781119423898.ch2

Cited by 7 publications

(8 citation statements)

References 31 publications

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“…For example, the parts used of Indigofera tinctoria and Indigofera suffruticosa were different. A previous study [1] showed that the indigo compounds from the two species are extracted by steeping leaves, but we found the stems, leaves, and ripe fruit were used in Li villages. This is because Li dyers believed the high-quality indigo paste needed the fruit ripening period according to the experience.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 83%

“…Firstly, in addition to water, the actual indigo content in the indigo paste could vary from 2 to 70%, the rest were lime, indirubin, and other organic materials [47]. Yet, synthetic indigo owns consistently high purity, which has always exceeded 90% [1]. To improve the indigo purity of traditional indigo-extracting methods, more attention should be paid to the indican metabolism since the indigo pigments come from the precursor indican as discussed above.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Among all natural dyes, indigoids (such as indigo, Tyrian, and woad) are often regarded as the most important and the oldest dye used by mankind [1]. Indigo use dates back to at least 6000 years, it is referred to as ‘blue gold’ because of its great value of trading commodity [2, 3].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Island blues: indigenous knowledge of indigo-yielding plant species used by Hainan Miao and Li dyers on Hainan Island, China

Zhang

Wang

Cunningham

et al. 2019

J Ethnobiology Ethnomedicine

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Background Historically, indigo-yielding plant species were important cash crops from Central Asia to the southern United States and Central America. Indigo-dyed textiles were widely traded along the legendary Silk Road that linked China to Europe. Today, due to the labor-intensive nature of indigo extraction at the household level, lifestyle changes and the widespread availability of commercially produced indigo paste, traditional indigo extraction methods have declined in villages. Yet Li textile weavers on Hainan Island are internationally recognized as producers of indigo-dyed textile using warp ikat techniques. In contrast, Hainan Miao weavers produce indigo-dyed textiles using batik (wax resist) techniques. The aim of this study was to document the indigenous knowledge on indigo-yielding plant species used by both Hainan Miao and Li people on Hainan Island, China. Method Ethnic uses were documented during three field surveys, through a questionnaire survey of 193 respondents, comprising 144 Hainan Miao and 49 Li traditional dyers. Mention index (QI), Availability index (AI), and Preference ranking (PR) of each indigo-yielding plant species were calculated to screen out plant resources with potential development value. Results Five indigo-yielding plant species (from four plant families and four genera) were historically used by Hainan Miao and Li dyers. However, just four species are still in use. Strobilanthes cusia was the main indigo source for Hainan Miao dyers. Li dyers also commonly use Indigofera species ( I. tinctoria and I. suffruticosa ) for indigo extraction. Wrightia laevis is less commonly used as a contemporary indigo source. Indigo extraction by steeping in water to which lime is added to increase the pH is sharing by the five indigo-yielding plant species. Strobilanthes cusia had the highest QI, AI and PR values in Hainan Miao villages. Indigofera tinctoria had the highest QI and AI values, but Indigofera suffruticosa was preferred by Li dyers. Conclusion In the process of modernization and urbanization, some Hainan Miao and Li dyers retain the traditional indigo extraction methods. We found that Strobilanthes cusia and Indigofera tinctoria have the most potential for sustainable indigo production in the future. Furthermore, this study documents the details of extraction method from Wrightia laevis for the first time and the use of Ricinus communis seeds in that process. As one of the last places globally where Wrightia laevis is still used for indigo production, the may also be a nice market among textile collectors and museums that keeps the ...

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Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 83%

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Island blues: indigenous knowledge of indigo-yielding plant species used by Hainan Miao and Li dyers on Hainan Island, China

Zhang

Wang

Cunningham

et al. 2019

J Ethnobiology Ethnomedicine

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“…Basically, for the proposed clothing, initiatives have been taken to offer sustainable solutions. 50,52,57,58 In addition, the consumers play an important role in sustainable fashion. 59 Criteria such as price, convenience, quality, satisfaction, happiness, style, design and trim are taken into account in the consumer decision.…”

Section: Sustainable Fashion Productmentioning

confidence: 99%

Insights into the dyeing using natural indigo (Indigofera tinctoria): Toward an environmentally friendly garment

Silva

Pagnan

et al. 2023

Coloration Technology

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Currently, the use of natural indigo dye has been treated as an alternative to overcome the environmental pollution caused by synthetic indigo. Irrespective of the indigo dye source, it must be reduced to its soluble form by using reducing agents in a suitable alkaline environment. Herein, bio‐sugars such as glucose or fructose were used for this purpose. The results revealed that when fructose was used instead of glucose, colour strength (K/S) values increased. In this work, cotton was cationised with water‐soluble chitosan. Water‐soluble chitosan in a wide pH range extends the use of chitosan in textiles, which otherwise is limited due to its poor water solubility at pH above 6.0. Colour fastness washing test was conducted to evaluate the efficacy of cotton cationisation. The performance of cationised samples was around 30% higher in comparison to non‐cationised samples. Moreover, in this article we have focused on integrating materials and design. We propose a garment, using natural indigo‐dyed cotton and a zero‐waste modelling approach, as a sustainable fashion product.

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“…Globally, at least 31 plant species across eight different families are indigo sources, including Persicaria tinctoria (Polygonaceae), Isatis indigotica (Brassicaceae), Indigofera tinctoria (Fabaceae) and Strobilanthes cusia (Nees) Kuntze (Acanthaceae) (Hadders, 1933; Cardon, 2007; Yusuf and Shahid‐ul‐islam, 2017). Although the organic compounds of blue pigments were identified as indigo and indirubin, mainly derived from their precursor indoxyl‐3‐ O ‐β‐ d ‐glucoside (indican), the independent evolutionary process and molecular mechanisms behind indigo biosynthetic pathways in plants remain largely unclear.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Blue genome: chromosome‐scale genome reveals the evolutionary and molecular basis of indigo biosynthesis in Strobilanthes cusia

Zhang

Cunningham

et al. 2020

The Plant Journal

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Natural plant dyes have been developed and used across many traditional societies worldwide. The blue pigment indigo has seen widespread usage across South America, Egypt, Europe, India and China for thousands of years, mainly extracted from indigo-rich plants. The utilization and genetic engineering of indigo in industries and ethnobotanical studies on the effects of cultural selection on plant domestication are limited due to lack of relevant genetic and genomic information of dye plants. Strobilanthes cusia (Acanthaceae) is a typical indigo-rich plant important to diverse ethnic cultures in many regions of Asia. Here we present a chromosome-scale genome for S. cusia with a genome size of approximately 865 Mb. About 79% of the sequences were identified as repetitive sequences and 32 148 protein-coding genes were annotated. Metabolic analysis showed that the main indigoid pigments (indican, indigo and indirubin) were mainly synthesized in the leaves and stems of S. cusia. Transcriptomic analysis revealed that the expression level of genes encoding metabolic enzymes such as monooxygenase, uridine diphosphate-glycosyltransferase and b-glucosidase were significantly changed in leaves and stems compared with root tissues, implying their participation in indigo biosynthesis. We found that several gene families involved in indigo biosynthesis had undergone an expansion in number, with functional differentiation likely facilitating indigo biosynthesis in S. cusia. This study provides insight into the physiological and molecular bases of indigo biosynthesis, as well as providing genomic data that provide the basis for further study of S. cusia cultivation by Asia's traditional textile producers.

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Natural Dyes from Indigoid‐Rich Plants: An Overview

Cited by 7 publications

References 31 publications

Island blues: indigenous knowledge of indigo-yielding plant species used by Hainan Miao and Li dyers on Hainan Island, China

Island blues: indigenous knowledge of indigo-yielding plant species used by Hainan Miao and Li dyers on Hainan Island, China

Insights into the dyeing using natural indigo (Indigofera tinctoria): Toward an environmentally friendly garment

Blue genome: chromosome‐scale genome reveals the evolutionary and molecular basis of indigo biosynthesis in Strobilanthes cusia

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