New Challenges for Developing Country Suppliers in Global Clothing Chains: A Comparative European Perspective

Palpacuer, Florence; Gibbon, Peter; Thomsen, Lotte

doi:10.1016/j.worlddev.2004.09.007

Cited by 132 publications

(89 citation statements)

References 16 publications

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“…The GVC literature shows that value chains oriented to different end markets often entail distinct upgrading opportunities (Palpacuer et al, 2005;Gibbon, 2008). For example, the demand in lower-income countries for less sophisticated products with regard to quality and variety can have major upgrading implications .…”

Section: Shifting End Markets and The Regionalization Of Gvcsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Global value chains in a post-Washington Consensus world

Gereffi

2013

Review of International Political Economy

704

401

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Contemporary globalization has been marked by significant shifts in the organization and governance of global industries. In the 1970s and 1980s, one such shift was characterized by the emergence of buyer-driven and producer-driven commodity chains. In the early 2000s, a more differentiated typology of governance structures was introduced, which focused on new types of coordination in global value chains (GVCs). Today the organization of the global economy is entering another phase, with transformations that are reshaping the governance structures of both GVCs and global capitalism at various levels: (1) the end of the Washington Consensus and the rise of contending centers of economic and political power; (2) a combination of geographic consolidation and value chain concentration in the global supply base, which, in some cases, is shifting bargaining power from lead firms in GVCs to large suppliers in developing economies; (3) new patterns of strategic coordination among value chain actors; (4) a shift in the end markets of many GVCs accelerated by the economic crisis of 2008-09, which is redefining regional geographies of investment and trade; and (5) a diffusion of the GVC approach to major international donor agencies, which is prompting a reformulation of established development paradigms.

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Section: Shifting End Markets and The Regionalization Of Gvcsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Global value chains in a post-Washington Consensus world

Gereffi

2013

Review of International Political Economy

704

401

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“…Tokatli et al (2008) note how retailers have demanded greater product variety from manufacturers as well as adding mid-season purchasing to the traditional two-season calendar. Palpacuer et al (2005) found that UK retailers made increasing demands of their suppliers for production flexibility and risk transfer, in addition to imposing continuous price reductions. In particular, increased payment terms and cost reduction practices affect the supplier's ability to manage costs, especially for full package suppliers that purchase fabric upfront.…”

Section: Compromises To Csr In Global Apparel Productionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Corporate Social Responsibility in Garment Sourcing Networks: Factory Management Perspectives on Ethical Trade in Sri Lanka

2014

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With complex buyer-driven global production networks and a labour-intensive manufacturing process, the fashion industry has become a focal point for debates on the social responsibility of business. Utilising an interview methodology with influential actors from seven export garment manufacturers in Sri Lanka, we explore the situated knowledge at one nodal point of the production network. We conceptualise factory management perspectives on the implementation of corporate social responsibility (CSR) in terms of the strategic balancing of ethical considerations against the commercial pressures of cost and lead time. Factory managers framed CSR in terms of compliance, rather than going above and beyond regulatory requirements; seeing it as a strategic competitive imperative and less a developmental mechanism. Sri Lankan manufacturers maintain that they have benefitted from a unique combination of factors, including strict national labour laws, an educated workforce, the characteristics of the garments produced, industrial upgrading, and long-term non-adversarial buyer-supplier relationships, which they argue has supported the establishment and maintenance of CSR practices. The paper thus provides managerial implications that relate CSR activities to CSR outcomes which include both reputational and production benefits. Such insights will be of strategic relevance for lead retail buyers as well as apparel producers keen to invest in CSR to partly mitigate against increasing price-based competition.

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“…In the context of regional trade agreements and fast fashion, regional supplier countries increased their market share in the EU-15 in the 1990s and early 2000s to the detriment of some higher cost East Asian countries and more importantly established European supplier countries, particularly Portugal, Spain, Greece and Italy (Baden 2002;Palpacuer et al 2005). Romania was the largest CEE supplier in 2004 accounting for 4.3 % of EU-15 apparel imports ( Table 1).…”

mentioning

confidence: 99%

Global competition, institutional context and regional production networks: up- and downgrading experiences in Romania’s apparel industry

Plank¹,

Staritz²

2015

CAMRES

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Standard-Nutzungsbedingungen:Die Dokumente auf EconStor dürfen zu eigenen wissenschaftlichen Zwecken und zum Privatgebrauch gespeichert und kopiert werden.Sie dürfen die Dokumente nicht für öffentliche oder kommerzielle Zwecke vervielfältigen, öffentlich ausstellen, öffentlich zugänglich machen, vertreiben oder anderweitig nutzen.Sofern die Verfasser die Dokumente unter Open-Content-Lizenzen (insbesondere CC-Lizenzen) zur Verfügung gestellt haben sollten, gelten abweichend von diesen Nutzungsbedingungen die in der dort genannten Lizenz gewährten Nutzungsrechte. Terms of use: Documents in Index of Figures and Tables AbstractRegional suppliers still play an important role in the global apparel industry. By studying the experience of Romania's apparel sector, the paper highlights, first, the importance of multiscalar institutional, macro and policy contexts in analyzing the articulation of and up-and downgrading experiences in global production networks. These include the Multi-Fibre Arrangement, EU trade agreements and accession, the global economic crisis, and the specific institutional and policy context of post-Socialism. Second, the paper stresses the existence of diverse, non-linear and uneven up-and downgrading trajectories and of reactive adaptation rather than pro-active firm strategies. This questions the ideal upgrading account often portrayed in chain and network research.

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New Challenges for Developing Country Suppliers in Global Clothing Chains: A Comparative European Perspective

Cited by 132 publications

References 16 publications

Global value chains in a post-Washington Consensus world

Global value chains in a post-Washington Consensus world

Corporate Social Responsibility in Garment Sourcing Networks: Factory Management Perspectives on Ethical Trade in Sri Lanka

Global competition, institutional context and regional production networks: up- and downgrading experiences in Romania’s apparel industry

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