Numerical analysis of run-up oscillations under dissipative conditions

Ruju, Andrea; Lara, Javier L.; Losada, Íñigo J.

doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2014.01.010

Cited by 48 publications

(32 citation statements)

References 42 publications

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“…Non-hydrostatic NL-SWE models (e.g., SWASH (Simulating WAves till SHore)) allow us to overcome some of the limitations in classic NL-SWE models by incorporating wave dispersion in the simulations. This numerical approach has been employed for the study of extreme water levels on a fringing reef lagoon (e.g., Torres-Freyermuth et al, 2012), wave run-up on beaches (e.g., Ruju et al, 2014;Guimarao et al, 2015), and infragravity shoreline dissipation (e.g., de Bakker et al, 2014). Furthermore, the potential for the run-up parameterization has been shown in Brinkkemper et al (2013).…”

Section: G Medellín Et Al: Downscaling Run-upmentioning

confidence: 99%

Run-up parameterization and beach vulnerability assessment on a barrier island: a downscaling approach

Medellín

Brinkkemper

Torres-Freyermuth

et al. 2016

Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci.

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Abstract. We present a downscaling approach for the study of wave-induced extreme water levels at a location on a barrier island in Yucatán (Mexico). Wave information from a 30-year wave hindcast is validated with in situ measurements at 8 m water depth. The maximum dissimilarity algorithm is employed for the selection of 600 representative cases, encompassing different combinations of wave characteristics and tidal level. The selected cases are propagated from 8 m water depth to the shore using the coupling of a third-generation wave model and a phase-resolving nonhydrostatic nonlinear shallow-water equation model. Extreme wave run-up, R 2 % , is estimated for the simulated cases and can be further employed to reconstruct the 30-year time series using an interpolation algorithm. Downscaling results show run-up saturation during more energetic wave conditions and modulation owing to tides. The latter suggests that the R 2 % can be parameterized using a hyperbolic-like formulation with dependency on both wave height and tidal level. The new parametric formulation is in agreement with the downscaling results (r 2 = 0.78), allowing a fast calculation of wave-induced extreme water levels at this location. Finally, an assessment of beach vulnerability to wave-induced extreme water levels is conducted at the study area by employing the two approaches (reconstruction/parameterization) and a storm impact scale. The 30-year extreme water level hindcast allows the calculation of beach vulnerability as a function of return periods. It is shown that the downscaling-derived parameterization provides reasonable results as compared with the numerical approach. This methodology can be extended to other locations and can be further improved by incorporating the storm surge contributions to the extreme water level.

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Section: G Medellín Et Al: Downscaling Run-upmentioning

confidence: 99%

Run-up parameterization and beach vulnerability assessment on a barrier island: a downscaling approach

Medellín

Brinkkemper

Torres-Freyermuth

et al. 2016

Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci.

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“…A range of numerical models have been used to model swash flows [e.g., Kobayashi and Poff , ; Hughes and Baldock , ; Guard and Baldock , ; Puleo et al ., ; Kelly and Dodd , ; Ruju et al ., ]. Briganti et al .…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 97%

Large eddy simulation of dam‐break‐driven swash on a rough‐planar beach

Kim

Zhou

Hsu

et al. 2017

J. Geophys. Res. Oceans

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Turbulence characteristics in the swash zone are investigated using a 3‐D large eddy simulation model. The numerical model is implemented based on OpenFOAM which solves the filtered Navier‐Stokes equations for two immiscible fluids with a standard Smagorinsky subgrid‐scale closure. The numerical model is validated with laboratory data for swash flow driven by a dam‐break apparatus. The model results demonstrate that the main characteristics of turbulence in the swash zone are different from those in the surf zone, which are mainly induced by surface wave breaking. During uprush phase, bore‐generated turbulence has 2‐D turbulence characteristics because of limited water depth. Near‐bed‐generated turbulence is mainly observed during backwash. Turbulence production and turbulent dissipation rate estimated from the model results indicate an imbalance, possibly due to advection at swash front and large roughness used. Touching down of turbulent coherent structure (TCS) is observed during uprush, which drives intense bed shear stress. During the backwash, interaction between TCS and bed is less clear. However, finger‐like patterns in the spatial extent of bed shear stress and vertical components of vorticity are predicted during the backwash. The location of the strongest finger patterns in the vertical direction is collocated with that of maximum turbulence production. These finger patterns are likely caused by boundary layer instabilities injected vertically from the bed.

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“…IG saturation was also observed on a low‐slope beach for H 0 >3 m [ de Bakker et al , ]. However, the field observations are not conclusive, and numerical and laboratory modeling suggests that even with a wide surfzone, IG runup increases linearly with H 0 [ Ruju et al , ] without clear saturation. Runup in extreme conditions is understood poorly.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Observations of runup and energy flux on a low‐slope beach with high‐energy, long‐period ocean swell

Fiedler

Brodie

McNinch

et al. 2015

Geophysical Research Letters

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The transformation of surface gravity waves from 11 m depth to runup was observed on the low‐sloped (1/80) Agate Beach, Oregon, with a cross‐shore transect of current meters, pressure sensors, and a scanning lidar. Offshore wave heights H0 ranged from calm (0.5 m) to energetic (>7 m). Runup, measured with pressure sensors and a scanning lidar, increases linearly with (H0L0)1/2, with L0 the deep‐water wavelength of the spectral peak. Runup saturation, in which runup oscillations plateau despite further increases in (H0L0)1/2, is not observed. Infragravity wave shoaling and nonlinear energy exchanges with short waves are included in an infragravity wave energy balance. This balance closes for high‐infragravity frequencies (0.025–0.04 Hz) but not lower frequencies (0.003–0.025 Hz), possibly owing to unmodeled infragravity energy losses of wave breaking and/or bottom friction. Dissipative processes limit, but do not entirely damp, increases in runup excursions in response to increased incident wave forcing.

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Numerical analysis of run-up oscillations under dissipative conditions

Cited by 48 publications

References 42 publications

Run-up parameterization and beach vulnerability assessment on a barrier island: a downscaling approach

Run-up parameterization and beach vulnerability assessment on a barrier island: a downscaling approach

Large eddy simulation of dam‐break‐driven swash on a rough‐planar beach

Observations of runup and energy flux on a low‐slope beach with high‐energy, long‐period ocean swell

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