Objective Evaluation of Seam Pucker Using Artificial Intelligence Part III: Using the Objective Evaluation Method to Analyze the Effects of Sewing Parameters on Seam Pucker

Abstract

The new objective evaluation method of seam pucker reported in Parts I and II of this study is used to analyze the effects of sewing parameters on seam pucker with five shape parameters in this part of the series. The parameters of sewing thread tension and stitch length are varied. To measure needle and bobbin thread tensions, frames are modified with dial tension gauges, linear guides, and weights. Four lightweight synthetic fabrics are used for seam pucker experiments. The needle and a bobbin. threads are polyester. These experiments show that sewing thread tension affects the wave amplitudes on the puckered surface as well as the objective AATCC seam pucker grade, but has no effect on the wave frequency characterized by the number of wave generating points and the wavelengths. Stitch length influences wave frequency on the seam line as well as AATCC grade, but without influencing wave amplitudes. The effects of stitch length on the shape parameters are quite different from those of sewing thread tension. With the expanded information provided by the five shape parameters of seam pucker, the effects of sewing parameters on seam pucker can be examined in more detail. The new evaluation method could be instrumental in better

The Influence of Technological Parameters on Quality of Fabric Assemble

“…Similar variation tendencies have also been demonstrated by analysis the length of the puckered section l v . Research works carried out by other authors showed in the same manner that stitch length has influence on quantity of puckers but has no influence on other characteristics [22]. According to recommendations of the authors, puckering shall be decreased by changing the tensioning value of a sewing thread rather than the stitch length.…”

Functional Properties and Seam Puckering on Cotton Shirt Influenced by Laundering

“…Th e eff ect of sewing parameters on seam pucker was examined most frequently [13,14]. Researchers have been investigating the relationship between fabric sewability, optimization of sewing and fabric features to predict seam pucker [15,16]. People prefer cotton shirts due to their soft ness and natural feeling; however, the soft -to-touch quality brings along less resilience and durability.…”