Observations of the Directional Spectrum of Fetch-Limited Waves

Ewans, Kevin

doi:10.1175/1520-0485(1998)028<0495:ootdso>2.0.co;2

Cited by 157 publications

(177 citation statements)

References 16 publications

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“…Figs. 8 and 16;1998) show good correspondence of the directional spreading functions to numerical results at high frequencies, but do not fix any side lobes below the spectral peak.…”

Section: Bi-modality Of Swell Spectramentioning

confidence: 73%

“…The latter effect can be essential, as observations and simulations clearly show (e.g., Kahma and Pettersson, 1994;Pettersson, 2004;Young, 2006;Badulin et al, 2008b, and references therein). Usually the swell continues to be considered a superposition of harmonics that do not interact with each other and, thus, can be described by the well-known methods of the linear theory of waves (e.g., Ewans, 1998;Ewans et al, 2004). Many features of the observed swell can be related to such models.…”

Section: Physical Models Of Ocean Swellmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Bi-modality of directional spreading of ocean swell is widely discussed for experimental data as a possible result of swell evolution (e.g., Ewans, 1998Ewans, , 2001Ewans et al, 2004). Our simulations encounter this effect as a persistent feature of swell spectra.…”

Section: Bi-modality Of Swell Spectramentioning

confidence: 99%

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Ocean swell within the kinetic equation for water waves

Badulin

Захаров

2017

Nonlin. Processes Geophys.

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Abstract. Results of extensive simulations of swell evolution within the duration-limited setup for the kinetic Hasselmann equation for long durations of up to 2 × 10 6 s are presented. Basic solutions of the theory of weak turbulence, the so-called Kolmogorov-Zakharov solutions, are shown to be relevant to the results of the simulations. Features of selfsimilarity of wave spectra are detailed and their impact on methods of ocean swell monitoring is discussed. Essential drop in wave energy (wave height) due to wave-wave interactions is found at the initial stages of swell evolution (on the order of 1000 km for typical parameters of the ocean swell). At longer times, wave-wave interactions are responsible for a universal angular distribution of wave spectra in a wide range of initial conditions. Weak power-law attenuation of swell within the Hasselmann equation is not consistent with results of ocean swell tracking from satellite altimetry and SAR (synthetic aperture radar) data. At the same time, the relatively fast weakening of wave-wave interactions makes the swell evolution sensitive to other effects. In particular, as shown, coupling with locally generated wind waves can force the swell to grow in relatively light winds.

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“…Figs. 8 and 16;1998) show good correspondence of the directional spreading functions to numerical results at high frequencies, but do not fix any side lobes below the spectral peak.…”

Section: Bi-modality Of Swell Spectramentioning

confidence: 73%

Section: Physical Models Of Ocean Swellmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Ocean swell within the kinetic equation for water waves

Badulin

Захаров

2017

Nonlin. Processes Geophys.

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“…Banner and Young (1994) indicated that the directional spread decreases slightly as wave age increases. Mitsuyasu et al (1975) and Hasselmann et al (1980) reported decreasing spreading with decreasing inverse wave age, but Donelan et al (1985) and Ewans (1998) do not find a clear dependence. Pettersson and Kahma (2005) found that narrow fetch data have higher inverse wave age than broad fetch data.…”

Section: Wave Directional Spreadingmentioning

confidence: 78%

Directionality and spread of shallow water waves along the eastern Arabian Sea

Kumar

Anoop

2013

Ann. Geophys.

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Abstract. The directional characteristics of shallow water waves are described based on measured data during 2011 at two locations spaced at 350 km along the eastern Arabian Sea. Study shows that, for high swells (significant wave height > 1 m) approaching almost parallel to the coast, the difference between mean and principal wave direction at spectral peak is negligible. The directional spreading of wind-sea-dominated wave spectrum is less than that of the swell-dominated spectrum. Average value of the ratio of the directional width at twice the peak frequency and that at the peak frequency is 1.9 indicating that the directional width increased at higher frequency. Even though both locations studied are along the eastern Arabian Sea, there are more northwest waves due to shamal events and local winds found at the northern location (27 %) than at the southern location (7 %).

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“…In particular, the dependence on wave age has been questioned. A good review of these forms and related discussions can be found in Young et al (1996), Ewans (1998), andYoung (1999). 3.…”

Section: Part I: a Review Of Literature Relevant To Directional Validmentioning

confidence: 99%

On Validation of Directional Wave Predictions: Review and Discussion

Rogers¹,

Wang²

2006

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Standard Form 298 (Rev. 8-98)Prescribed by ANSI Std. Z39.18Public reporting burden for this collection of information is estimated to average 1 hour per response, including the time for reviewing instructions, searching existing data sources, gathering and maintaining the data needed, and completing and reviewing this collection of information. This report consists of supplementary materials for an article, accepted for publication in the Journal of Atmospheric and Oceanic Technology, dealing with directional wave model validation by the same authors. These materials provide important background information for this companion paper, but were not included due to journal page limitations. Part I of this report provides a review of literature related to directional validation of wave models. Part II of this report discusses a number of issues that were raised by reviewers to the paper with particular focus on extensive non-directional validation of wave models. Also presented are validation of higher order moments, a summary of alternate methods of validation of directional spreading, a discussion of data-adaptive methods, and discussion of sensitivity of results to the handling of the high frequency range of the wave spectrum. PERFORMING ORGANIZATION NAME(S) AND ADDRESS(ES) SPONSOR / MONITOR'S ACRONYM(S) 9. SPONSORING / MONITORING AGENCY NAME(S) AND ADDRESS(ES) SPONSOR / MONITOR'S REPORT NUMBER(S)

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Observations of the Directional Spectrum of Fetch-Limited Waves

Cited by 157 publications

References 16 publications

Ocean swell within the kinetic equation for water waves

Ocean swell within the kinetic equation for water waves

Directionality and spread of shallow water waves along the eastern Arabian Sea

On Validation of Directional Wave Predictions: Review and Discussion

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