Oily formulations challenge: how to evaluate their beneficial effects in hydrophilic cell-based models?

Abstract

In the European Union, Israel and India, testing cosmetic products or their ingredients on animals is prohibited. In this context, in vitro cell models play a pivotal role in the evaluation of both safety and beneficial effects of cosmetics. Oily formulations, widely used in cosmetics, are complex to study on cell models due to their lipophilic nature that doesn’t match with hydrophilic culture medium. Organic solvents are then required to solubilize oily formulations, but they can interfere with the cellular response. To avoid the use of organic solvents, we developed a method based on cells to evaluate potential beneficial effects of oily formulations. Our method, suitable for high throughput screening, consists in: (1) incubating cells with oily formulations for a short time followed by a recovery period in culture medium and (2) studying cell parameters using robust techniques such as cytofluorometry and fluorescence resonance energy transfer (FRET). Depending on the studied cell parameter, various beneficial effects can be revealed like antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and skin regeneration. The field of cell parameters is open and can be extended to new perspectives in the development of oily formulations.

Topical application of jojoba (Simmondsia chinensis L.) wax enhances the synthesis of pro-collagen III and hyaluronic acid and reduces inflammation in the ex-vivo human skin organ culture model

“…As lipids become an essential and innovative ingredient in cosmetics, with ever-increasing interest (Bonnet, 2018), lipid substance solubility is a significant issue. Although some authors have previously addressed it, available approaches are limited (Olivier et al, 2018). Attempts to incorporate jojoba wax in formulation required the use of a homogenizer, in addition to an overnight equilibration time (Shahin et al, 2011) or a high temperature of 65 °C (Costa et al, 2014).…”

Lipids, a natural raw material at the heart of cosmetics innovation

“…In this dossier, you will find some of the topics covered throughout this congress through the following articles of the speakers: relations between the sensory properties and fat ingredients of lipsticks (de Clermont-Gallerande et al, 2018); augmented bio-based lipids for cosmetics (Duprat-de-Paule et al, 2018); tamanu oil and skin active properties: from traditional to modern cosmetic uses (Raharivelomanana et al, 2018); lipids from seaweeds: selective extraction of potential active compounds (Terme et al, 2018); separation and identification of polar polyphenols in oily formulation using high-performance thin-layer chromatography and mass spectroscopy techniques (Fadel et al, 2018); the concept of sphingolipid rheostat in skin: a driving force for new active ingredients in cosmetic applications (Popa, 2018); oily formulations challenge: how to evaluate their beneficial effects in hydrophilic cell-based models? (Olivier et al, 2018); non invasive in vivo methods to measure lipidic formulae efficacy at the skin surface: advantages and limits (Prestat-Marquis, 2018).…”