Organizations rely on machine learning engineers (MLEs) to deploy models and maintain ML pipelines in production. Due to models' extensive reliance on fresh data, the operationalization of machine learning, or MLOps, requires MLEs to have proficiency in data science and engineering. When considered holistically, the job seems staggering---how do MLEs do MLOps, and what are their unaddressed challenges? To address these questions, we conducted semi-structured ethnographic interviews with 18 MLEs working on various applications, including chatbots, autonomous vehicles, and finance. We find that MLEs engage in a workflow of (i) data preparation, (ii) experimentation, (iii) evaluation throughout a multi-staged deployment, and (iv) continual monitoring and response. Throughout this workflow, MLEs collaborate extensively with data scientists, product stakeholders, and one another, supplementing routine verbal exchanges with communication tools ranging from Slack to organization-wide ticketing and reporting systems. We introduce the 3Vs of MLOps: velocity, visibility, and versioning --- three virtues of successful ML deployments that MLEs learn to balance and grow as they mature. Finally, we discuss design implications and opportunities for future work.