On The Breaking Of Waves Arriving At An Angle To The Shore

Retrograde Accretion of a Caribbean Fringing Reef Controlled by Hurricanes and Sea-level Rise

“…We considered five formulas for breaker ratio (McCowan, 1894;Weggel, 1972;Madsen, 1976;Hanson and Kraus, 1989;Larson and Kraus, 1989) and seven for breaker index (Munk, 1949;Le Méhauté and Koh, 1967;Komar and Gaughan, 1972;Singamsetti and Wind, 1980;Sunamura, 1982;Smith and Kraus, 1990;Gourlay, 1992). Formulas for breaker ratio variously include dependencies on floor slope, period, and deep-water wave length (L ∞ ) and deep-water height.…”

Action d'une structure côtière inclinée sur la houle : description déterministe du déferlement

“…4). Elle est représentée par: rog=0,012~0)N (3) o N étant un coefficient qui dépend de OE (voir Fig. 5).…”

Theoretical and Observed Breaking Wave Height on a Barred Macrotidal Beach: Implications for the Estimation of Breaker Index on Beaches with Large Tidal Range

“…The in situ measured breaking wave heights (H bm ) were compared with calculated breaker heights (H bc ) according to different predictive equations developed from laboratory experiments and field data for regular and irregular waves (Le Mehaute and Koh, 1967;Komar and Gaughan, 1972;Van Dorn, 1978;Kamphuis, 1991;Smith and Kraus, 1991;Rattanapitikon et al, 2003;Rattanapitikon and Shibayama, 2006;Goda, 2010) applicable for the environmental conditions observed at the experimental site, notably beach slope and offshore wave steepness. Because the deep-water wave data were measured at a distance of about 36 km offshore, the wave travel time between the offshore wave buoy and the surveyed beach was estimated based on wave celerity incrementally computed for decreasing water depths according to linear wave theory.…”

“…This can explain why so much effort was dedicated for years for trying to predict breaking wave height and breaking depth. These investigations resulted in the development of a significant number of predictive equations based on laboratory experiments or on field measurements using deep-water and breaking wave observations (e.g., Le Mehaute and Koh, 1967;Komar and Gaughan, 1972;Kamphuis, 1991;Rattanapitikon and Shibayama, 2006). The reliability of these empirical or semi-empirical equations for accurately predicting breaking wave parameters is extremely variable (Camenen and Larson, 2007;Robertson et al, 2013) and seems to depend on several site-specific characteristics (beach and/or surf zone slope, grain-size, bedforms,…) and wave characteristics (regular or irregular waves, initial deep-water wave steepness,..), as well as wind and tidal currents that may also interact with breaking wave processes.…”