On the Characteristics of Observed Coastal Freak Waves

Chien, Hwa; Kao, Chia Chuen; Chuang, Laurence Zsu Hsin

doi:10.1142/s0578563402000561

Cited by 85 publications

(54 citation statements)

References 6 publications

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“…Katsardi et al (2013) experimentally found out that in shallow water large waves, which cannot be described by any existing wave height distributions, can be formed. In the field observations (Chien et al, 2002;Nikolkina and Didenkulova, 2011;Wang et al, 2013) , freak waves are also identified in coastal region. Hence, research on the predication of the appearance of these extreme waves and the behind mechanics is crucial in coastal engineering.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 92%

Experimental Study of Statistics of Random Waves Propagating Over a Bar

Dong

2014

Int. Conf. Coastal. Eng.

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A series of physical experiments on the variations of statistics of random waves propagating over a submerged bar were conducted. Random waves were generated by JONWSAP spectra, varying initial spectral width but fixing the wave height and peak frequency. It is found that some freak waves can be formed in the shoaling region close to the top of the bar. And the appearance of these freak waves are mainly caused by the local triad wave-wave interactions. In addition, the probability occurrence of the freak waves has negligible relation with the spectral width. Additionally, the appearance of freak waves is relating to the increasing of wave groupiness in the shoaling region. Furthermore, the relationship between the skewness and kurtosis in the shoaling region can be predicted well with the formula by Mori and Kobayashi (1998).

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Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 92%

Experimental Study of Statistics of Random Waves Propagating Over a Bar

Dong

2014

Int. Conf. Coastal. Eng.

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“…Most cited collections considered the rogue wave events in the deep ocean. Chien et al (2002) was the first who drew public attention to the problem of rogue wave occurrence in shallow waters. He made an attempt to create a catalogue of rogue events in the coastal zone of Taiwan in the past 50 yr and reported 140 events.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Rogue waves in 2006–2010

Nikolkina

Didenkulova

2011

Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci.

145

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Abstract. The evidence of rogue wave existence all over the world during last five years (2006)(2007)(2008)(2009)(2010) has been collected based mainly on mass media sources. Only events associated with damage and human loss are included. The waves occurred not only in deep and shallow zones of the World Ocean, but also at the coast, where they were manifested as either sudden flooding of the coast or high splashes over steep banks or sea walls. From the total number of 131 reported events, 78 were identified as evidence of rogue waves (which are expected to be at least twice larger than the significant wave height). The background significant wave height was estimated from the satellite wave data. The rogue waves at the coast, where the significant wave height is unknown or meaningless, were selected based on their unexpectedness and hazardous character. The statistics built on the selected 78 events suggests that extreme waves cause more damage in shallow waters and at the coast than in the deep sea and can be used for hazard assessment of the rogue wave phenomenon.

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“…For example, Chien et al (2002), report on 140 freak wave events in the coastal zone of Taiwan for the past 50 years and Didenkulova et al (2006), report on coastal freak wave events seen by casual eyewitnesses in 2005. The increased incidence of such accidents suggests more widespread coastal freak wave occurrence than has hitherto been recognized.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Freak waves of different types in the coastal zone of the Baltic Sea

Didenkulova

Anderson

2010

Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci.

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Abstract. We present a statistical analysis of freak waves 1 measured during the 203 h of observation on sea surface elevation at a location in the coastal zone of the Baltic Sea (2.7 m depth) during June-July 2008. The dataset contains 97 freak waves occurring in both calm and stormy weather conditions. All of the freak waves are solitary waves, 63% of them having positive shape, 17.5% negative shape and 19.5% sign-variable shape. It is suggested that the freak waves can be divided into two groups. Those of the first group, which includes 92% of the freak waves, have an amplification factor (ratio of freak wave height to significant wave height) which does not vary from significant wave height and has values largely within the range of 2.0 to 2.4; while for the second group, which contain the most extreme freak waves, amplification factors depend strongly on significant wave height and can reach 3.1. Analysis based on the Generalised Pareto distribution is used to describe the waves of the first group and lends weight to the identification of the two groups. It is suggested that the probable mechanism of the generation of freak waves in the second group is dispersive focussing. The time-frequency spectra of the freak waves are studied and dispersive tracks, which can be interpreted as dispersive focussing, are demonstrated.

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On the Characteristics of Observed Coastal Freak Waves

Cited by 85 publications

References 6 publications

Experimental Study of Statistics of Random Waves Propagating Over a Bar

Experimental Study of Statistics of Random Waves Propagating Over a Bar

Rogue waves in 2006–2010

Freak waves of different types in the coastal zone of the Baltic Sea

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