Optimization of Cyclodextrin-Assisted Extraction of Phenolics from Helichrysum italicum for Preparation of Extracts with Anti-Elastase and Anti-Collagenase Properties

Abstract

Helichrysum italicum is a plant traditionally used for skin-related disorders that is becoming an increasingly popular ingredient in cosmetic products. In this work, a “green” ultrasound-assisted extraction method for H. italicum phenolics was developed using skin-friendly cyclodextrins (CDs). Extraction conditions needed for the greatest yield of target compounds (total phenolics, phenolic acids, and flavonoids) were calculated. The composition of the extracts was determined using LC-MS and spectrophotometric methods. Among the tested CDs, 2-hydroxylpropyl-beta-CD (HP-β-CD) was the best suited for extraction of target phenolics and used to prepare two optimized extracts, OPT 1 (the extract with the highest phenolic acid content) and OPT 2 (the extract with the highest total phenol and flavonoid content). The extracts were prepared at 80 °C, using 0.089 g of plant material/g solvent (0.6 mmol of HP-β-CD), with or without addition of 1.95% (w/w) lactic acid. The main metabolite in both extracts was 3,5-O-dicaffeoylquinic acid. It was found that the addition of lactic acid greatly contributes to the extraction of arzanol, a well-known anti-inflammatory agent. IC50 values of the anti-elastase (22.360 ± 0.125 μL extract/mL and 20.067 ± 0.975 for OPT-1 and OPT-2, respectively) and anti-collagenase (12.035 ± 1.029 μL extract/mL and 14.392 ± 0.705 μL extract/mL for OPT-1 and OPT-2, respectively) activities of the extracts surpassed those of the applied positive controls, namely ursolic and gallic acids. This activity deems the prepared extracts promising ingredients for natural cosmetics, appropriate for direct use in cosmetic products, removing the need for the evaporation of conventional solvents.

Hydroxypropyl-β-Cyclodextrin-Based Helichrysum italicum Extracts: Antioxidant and Cosmeceutical Activity and Biocompatibility

“…The TP, TPA, and TF content of the extracts are presented in Figure 1 . While TPA in OPT 1, as well as TP and TF in OPT 2, have been previously published in [ 10 ] ( Table S1 ), this research provides new information on TP and TF in OPT 1, as well as TPA in OPT 2. In our previous work, we optimized an HP-β-CD-assisted procedure for preparation of an extract containing a high amount of phenolic compounds.…”

“…In our previous work, we optimized an HP-β-CD-assisted procedure for preparation of an extract containing a high amount of phenolic compounds. The exhaustive extraction optimization, reported in the previous study [ 10 ], showed that a small amount (1.95%, w / w ) of lactic acid positively contributed to TPA extraction, while its presence exerted a negative influence on TP and TF extraction. As a result, two extracts were prepared using an optimized HP-β-CD-assisted procedure: OPT-1, with high TPA and prepared using lactic acid, while for the preparation of OPT-2, the extract high in TP and TF, lactic acid was not added.…”

“…Two H. italicum extracts were prepared, OPT-1 and OPT-2 (formerly OPT-1 and OPT-2), according to a previously published protocol [ 10 ]. In short, fresh powdered plant material (0.89 g) and HP-β-CD (0.6 mmol) were quickly dispersed in 10 g of 1.95%, w / w lactic acid (OPT-1) or water (OPT-2) and quickly stirred.…”

“…The use of H. italicum in cosmetics is growing rapidly as it is widely presumed that it can delay or even prevent skin aging [ 6 ]. Scientific studies have confirmed that H. italicum extracts and its essential oil, as well as the phenolic and other substances that the plant contains, display antioxidant and antibacterial activity [ 6 ], the ability to decrease skin irritation [ 9 ], inhibit the enzymes that adversely affect skin appearance, such as elastase and collagenase [ 5 , 10 ], and even accelerate wound healing in vivo [ 11 ]. Arzanol, for example, has been identified as the major anti-inflammatory and anti-viral constituent from H. italicum .…”

“…The extracts were rich in bioactive phenolic compounds, especially arzanol and 3,5-dicaffeoylquinic acid. Furthermore, they presented potent anti-elastase and anti-collagenase properties [ 10 ]. The summary of the performed research is presented in Table S1 .…”