Parameterization of nearshore wave breaker index

Zhang, Chi; Li, Yuan; Cai, Yu; Shi, Jian; Zheng, Jinhai; Cai, Feng; Qi, Hongshuai

doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2021.103914

Cited by 27 publications

(5 citation statements)

References 55 publications

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“…Wave height on the crest of the nourishment is larger on the initial profile than on the quasi-equilibrium profile. This is because the small water depth over the crest of nourishment on the initial profile tends to trigger more wave breaking dissipation than the large water depth [55][56][57]. Similar observations were also made by [17,58] on beaches with or without nourishments.…”

Section: Hydrodynamicssupporting

confidence: 63%

Wave Dissipation and Sediment Transport Patterns during Shoreface Nourishment towards Equilibrium

Zhang

Cai

et al. 2021

JMSE

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Implementing shoreface nourishment is an effective method to protect sandy beaches. A better understanding of the equilibrium mechanism of shoreface nourishments is necessary for coastal engineering designs and constructions. Two experiments on the beach profile equilibrium of the shoreface nourishment are carried out under mild wave conditions on the reflective and intermediate beach. It is observed that the shoreface nourishment increases local wave height and strengthens wave nonlinearity by its shallow water depth. The most intense wave breaking dissipation has been found on the crest of the shoreface nourishment, and the distribution of wave energy dissipation rate is more uniform on the quasi-equilibrium profile than that on the initial profile. A process-based numerical model is used to reproduce bed profile evolution successfully. On that basis, it is found that onshore bedload transport is the primary cause for the onshore migration of the shoreface nourishment. The magnitude of bedload transport decreases during the evolution of the shoreface nourishment towards equilibrium. The most intense sediment transport rate occurs over the shoreface nourishment or in front of the shoreline, depending on the ’lee effect’ of the nourishment. Furthermore, the effects of incident wave height, wave period, and sea-level rise on the equilibrium profile of the shoreface nourishment under mild wave conditions are analyzed.

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Section: Hydrodynamicssupporting

confidence: 63%

Wave Dissipation and Sediment Transport Patterns during Shoreface Nourishment towards Equilibrium

Zhang

Cai

et al. 2021

JMSE

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“…The piling-up in the protected area due to the presence of the submerged breakwater is kept constant up to the shoreline. Although several authors derived equations for the evaluation of the breaking index depending on the wave steepness, local water depth, and bed slope [32][33][34], here, only the depth-induced breaking is considered and the breaking coefficient is kept constant. The sediment volume balance and, thus, the final value of the recession, is limited to the protected zone.…”

Section: Materials and Methods-semi-analytical Modelmentioning

confidence: 99%

Semi-Analytical Model for the Evaluation of Shoreline Recession Due to Waves and Sea Level Rise

Marini

Corvaro

Rocchi

et al. 2022

Water

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The climate change process is leading to an increase in the sea level and the storm intensity. The associated shoreline recession can damage coastal facilities and also beaches protected by submerged/emerged breakwaters whose defense action can become ineffective. The application of cross-shore numerical models does not allow the performance of long-term analyses. In this paper, a semi-analytical model for the evaluation of shoreline recession due to waves and sea-level rise for free and protected beaches is proposed. The model is an extension of the Dean’s approach in which some limitations on the beach profile are overcome and the effects of breakwaters on the wave height (wave transmission) and on the water level (piling-up) are considered. The model takes into account a wide range of parameters for wave, sea level, beach profile, and breakwater characteristics. Among the breakwater parameters, the freeboard and the berm width are found to mainly affect the shoreline recession. For submerged breakwaters, an optimal value of the freeboard can be computed depending on the sea level and the offshore wave characteristics. The results of the model are then used to find prediction relations of the shoreline recession, with r2 > 0.99, for both free and protected beaches, depending on the main hydrodynamic/geometrical characteristics.

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“…The maximum shoaling H s is slightly underestimated by both the J17 RS model and the VF model. This underestimation may be attributed to the uncertainty arising from the parameterization of wave shoaling and breaking in the SWAN model (Zhang et al., 2021). The higher H s observed near the shoreline in the VF model is likely due to the stronger shoreward advection.…”

Section: Comparison Of J17 Rs and Vfmentioning

confidence: 99%

Assessing Empirical Components in Wave Breaking and Rollers Through Model Comparison of Radiation Stress and Vortex Force

Wu,

Zhang

et al. 2024

JGR Oceans

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As incoming waves approach shallow water, they break and result in nearshore currents. The assessment of the wave‐induced nearshore currents often relies on the application of radiation stress (RS) and vortex force (VF) in circulation models, both of which incorporate empirical components to describe wave breaking and wave rollers. In this study, we compared a recent 3D RS formulation and a VF formulation by assessing the modeled cross‐shore velocities against the measured counterparts from the LIP11D and Duck’94 experiments. The comparison results indicate that the RS model performs better in LIP11D, whereas the VF model exhibits better with respect to Duck’94. Using momentum balance analysis, we found that the cross‐shore velocities were dominated by the breaking term (representing the RS terms and non‐conservative breaking term in the RS and VF models, respectively) and the roller term. The breaking term generates undertow currents across the entire surf zone. The roller term cooperates with the breaking term in the inner surf zone, but counteracts the breaking term and tends to trigger unrealistic offshore currents at the water surface in the outer surf zone. Further analysis reveals that the RS and VF formulations can simulate almost identical velocity results by adjusting the vertical distribution of the breaking and roller terms. Overall, this study indicates that both the RS and VF formulations are effective in evaluating wave effects on the cross‐shore currents, and empirical components in the breaking and roller terms are important for modeling cross‐shore velocities.

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Parameterization of nearshore wave breaker index

Cited by 27 publications

References 55 publications

Wave Dissipation and Sediment Transport Patterns during Shoreface Nourishment towards Equilibrium

Wave Dissipation and Sediment Transport Patterns during Shoreface Nourishment towards Equilibrium

Semi-Analytical Model for the Evaluation of Shoreline Recession Due to Waves and Sea Level Rise

Assessing Empirical Components in Wave Breaking and Rollers Through Model Comparison of Radiation Stress and Vortex Force

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