Pattern Grading Design for Women's Batik Fabric in Terengganu, Malaysia: A Preliminary Study

Abstract

The Malaysian batik manufacturing industry is seen as an industry that has a contributor to the national economy. However, to maintain and increase the Malaysian batik economy, batik fabric manufacturing must move in line with the current manufacturing methods and technology. Therefore, the existing batik fabric needs to be improved in terms of manufacturing, including pattern grading design. This study aims to identify the preliminary analysis of the common pattern grading scheme for women's existing batik cloth in Terengganu, Malaysia. In order to gather data for this study, observations and interviews were used as the approach. Eight batik experts were interviewed for the study, and three batik markets and craft fairs in Terengganu were chosen for observation. The findings indicate that the current batik fabric needs to be developed into a pattern grading design to keep up with modern techniques and technology while minimizing the amount of extra cloth disposed of.

Visual Observation of Women’s Traditional Baju Kurung Pattern Grading Arrangement Layout on Existing Batik Fabric to Reduce Fabric Waste in Malaysia

“…Exploring pattern grading in this context presents an opportunity to develop innovative pattern grading arrangements, catering to consumers seeking unique and stylish clothing options (Rissanen, 2013). There is no defined pattern grading design size such as S, M, or L in the batik industry; instead, it follows the free size and in terms of arranging the pattern design on the batik cloth is similar to a regular pattern arrangement and full pattern (Ya et al, 2022). The existing batik fabric manufacturer in Malaysia was produced in 4 meters length for women's clothes (typically for the Baju Kurung or Kebaya) and 2 ½ metres for men's shirts (Chik & Lokman, 2006;Ismail et al, 2013;Ya et al, 2022).…”

“…There is no defined pattern grading design size such as S, M, or L in the batik industry; instead, it follows the free size and in terms of arranging the pattern design on the batik cloth is similar to a regular pattern arrangement and full pattern (Ya et al, 2022). The existing batik fabric manufacturer in Malaysia was produced in 4 meters length for women's clothes (typically for the Baju Kurung or Kebaya) and 2 ½ metres for men's shirts (Chik & Lokman, 2006;Ismail et al, 2013;Ya et al, 2022). In terms of motif design placement is similar to a regular pattern arrangement and full pattern (Ya et al, 2022).…”

“…The existing batik fabric manufacturer in Malaysia was produced in 4 meters length for women's clothes (typically for the Baju Kurung or Kebaya) and 2 ½ metres for men's shirts (Chik & Lokman, 2006;Ismail et al, 2013;Ya et al, 2022). In terms of motif design placement is similar to a regular pattern arrangement and full pattern (Ya et al, 2022). At the same time, the bulk of hand-drawn silk items for women's clothes had a length of four metres (4.5 yards).…”

“…They are designed to be tailored into traditional Malay attire (Yunus, 2011). Existing batik fabric (Baju Kurung or Kebaya) for women is divided into five main pattern arrangement parts: one for the bodice front, one for the bodice back, two sleeves (right and left), one for a skirt, and one more part that is not normally used other than a little for the neck lining (Ya et al, 2022).…”

“…Furthermore, because pattern grading design of various sizes and creating arrangements prior to marker-making need more personnel and time, it is desired and vital for CAD systems to be beneficial in all of these processes, which may minimize manpower and time (Tabraz, 2017). Ya et al, (2022) recommended using CAD programs to develop a novel strategy for pattern grading design in order to improve batik patterns while minimizing the cost of raw materials and the amount of superfluous fabric that must be discarded. Pattern grading is a fantastic notion for improving the production of batik patterns since it may minimize the cost of raw material consumption, save manufacturing time, and provide other benefits.…”