Phase-resolving integral wave evolution in a coastal environment

Abstract

The many and diverse approaches to phase-resolving integral wave evolution have no verification standard. A minimum candidate must be the propagation of steep progressive waves at uniform depth, a context which also provides exact estimates for the challenging advection and especially dispersion terms in the momentum equation. Heuristic scaling provides realistic and phase-resolving approximations to these advection and dispersion terms, and the new set of phase-resolving integral wave evolution equations. Their predictive capability is explored for four problems with analytical association.