Phenylethyl resorcinol smartLipids for skin brightening – Increased loading &amp; chemical stability

Köpke, Daniel; Müller, Rainer H.; Pyo, Sung Min

doi:10.1016/j.ejps.2019.104992

Cited by 10 publications

(12 citation statements)

References 14 publications

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“…Ethosomes formulations as well as nanostructured lipid carriers (NLCs) with high encapsulation efficiency and stability have also been developed for the delivery of phenylethyl resorcinol into the skin, exhibiting higher tyrosinase inhibition compared to other formulations in B16 melanoma cells [234,235]. Increased loading and chemical stability was achieved also by the use of smartPearls combined with the UV abosorber Tinosorb S [236].…”

Section: New Trends In the Search For Tyrosinase Inhibitorsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Natural and Bioinspired Phenolic Compounds as Tyrosinase Inhibitors for the Treatment of Skin Hyperpigmentation: Recent Advances

2019

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One of the most common approaches for control of skin pigmentation involves the inhibition of tyrosinase, a copper-containing enzyme which catalyzes the key steps of melanogenesis. This review focuses on the tyrosinase inhibition properties of a series of natural and synthetic, bioinspired phenolic compounds that have appeared in the literature in the last five years. Both mushroom and human tyrosinase inhibitors have been considered. Among the first class, flavonoids, in particular chalcones, occupy a prominent role as natural inhibitors, followed by hydroxystilbenes (mainly resveratrol derivatives). A series of more complex phenolic compounds from a variety of sources, first of all belonging to the Moraceae family, have also been described as potent tyrosinase inhibitors. As to the synthetic compounds, hydroxycinnamic acids and chalcones again appear as the most exploited scaffolds. Several inhibition mechanisms have been reported for the described inhibitors, pointing to copper chelating and/or hydrophobic moieties as key structural requirements to achieve good inhibition properties. Emerging trends in the search for novel skin depigmenting agents, including the development of assays that could distinguish between inhibitors and potentially toxic substrates of the enzyme as well as of formulations aimed at improving the bioavailability and hence the effectiveness of well-known inhibitors, have also been addressed.

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Section: New Trends In the Search For Tyrosinase Inhibitorsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Natural and Bioinspired Phenolic Compounds as Tyrosinase Inhibitors for the Treatment of Skin Hyperpigmentation: Recent Advances

2019

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“…For example, the dye CI 17200, which is identified by the FDA code as red No. 33 and assigned to the nitrogen chromophore group [114], can release amines, which are considered to be carcinogenic [115]. The dye CI 19140 (Yellow No.…”

Section: Dyesmentioning

confidence: 99%

Health Effects of Dyes, Minerals, and Vitamins Used in Cosmetics

Wargala

Sławska

Zalewska

et al. 2021

Women

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The average woman uses 12 different cosmetic products every day, but they can have a negative effect on human health. Therefore, in recent years, consumer preferences have changed towards buying natural or ecological cosmetics free from preservatives or unnecessary dyes. The aim of this work is to discuss the use of dyes, minerals, and vitamins in cosmetics in terms of their safety and impact on human health. These substances are very important in the cosmetics industry. Most of them are of natural origin. Some minerals used in the production of face masks or creams are recommended to work against inflammations such as ulcers and acne. Clay minerals have exceptional qualities, among others, low or no toxicity and high bio-compatibility. However, some of them may be harmful. For example, the safety of using talc has been widely debated in recent years. Cosmetic-grade talc cannot contain detectable fibrous asbestos minerals. Moreover, talc should not be applied to the skin when the epidermal barrier is missing or significantly disrupted. The use of talc in cosmetic products in the European Union is restricted. Vitamins are one of the most commonly used, biologically active, and easily accessible components in cosmetics. For example, provitamin B5 (D-panthenol) is a bioactive substance. In cosmetic preparations, it has a softening, repairing, and anti-inflammatory effect and is responsible for regulating sebum secretion. However, some vitamins may be harmful to human health. For example, the use of skin-whitening cosmetics containing vitamin C causes allergic contact dermatitis, whereas the most common adverse effect of topical use of vitamin A is skin irritation, erythema, and peeling. Dyes, which are used to color cosmetics, do not improve the condition of the skin, hair, or nails. Some of them may be harmful to human health. For example, the dye CI 60730 (Acid Violet 43) is prohibited for use in eye products and cosmetics that have contact with mucous membranes. In conclusion, some of the popular cosmetic ingredients discussed in this paper may exert a negative influence on human health, and many of these harmful effects have been discovered recently. Therefore, there is a need for further studies on the possible negative effects of dyes, minerals, and vitamins used in cosmetic products.

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“…According to relevant studies, PR is one of the highest tyrosinase inhibitors, and its tyrosinase inhibitory ability is 22 times stronger than that of kojic acid [9]. At a concentration of 0.5%, it can cause skin discomfort in Asians [10]. In addition, PR is a potential antifungal agent against dermatomycoses [11].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…When PR is exposed to light, it will be degraded, and the color of PR changes from white to pink. To improve the photostability of PR-NLPs against UV light, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (DHHB) was added to PR-NLPs to prevent the rapid degradation of PR [10]. DHHB is a UVA absorber without the drawback of photoinstability and with good solubility properties [12].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Nanoliposome Use to Improve the Stability of Phenylethyl Resorcinol and Serve as a Skin Penetration Enhancer for Skin Whitening

et al. 2022

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Phenylethyl resorcinol (PR) is a potent tyrosinase inhibitor and a cosmeceutical skin lightening agent. However, the application of PR is limited by photoinstability and poor solubility. In this study, we formulated and optimized phenylethyl resorcinol loaded nanoliposomes (PR-NLPs) to improve the stability and effective delivery of PR. PR-NLPs were prepared by the ethanol injection method and optimized by a single factor experimental and Box–Behnken design. In addition, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (DHHB) as the UBA absorber was added to PR-NLPs, which significantly improved the photostability of PR. The mean size, polydispersity index (PDI), and zeta potential of the optimized PR-NLPs were 130.1 ± 3.54 nm, 0.225 ± 0.02, and −43.9 ± 3.44 mV, respectively. The drug encapsulation efficiency (EE) and loading efficiency (LC) of PR-NLPs were 96.81 ± 3.46% and 8.82 ± 0.6%, respectively. These PR-NLPs showed good physicochemical stability for 3 months at 4 °C and 25 °C in the dark. They showed typical sustained and prolonged drug-release behavior in vitro. The in vitro cytotoxicity assay and cellular uptake demonstrated that the PR-NLPs had excellent biocompatibility and cell transport ability. It significantly inhibited tyrosinase activity and reduced melanin production in B16F10 cells at concentrations of 20 or 30 μg/mL. Moreover, the PR-NLPs enhanced the PR into the skin. These results indicate that PR-NLPs can be used as a nanocarrier to improve the transdermal delivery of PR.

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Phenylethyl resorcinol smartLipids for skin brightening – Increased loading & chemical stability

Cited by 10 publications

References 14 publications

Natural and Bioinspired Phenolic Compounds as Tyrosinase Inhibitors for the Treatment of Skin Hyperpigmentation: Recent Advances

Natural and Bioinspired Phenolic Compounds as Tyrosinase Inhibitors for the Treatment of Skin Hyperpigmentation: Recent Advances

Health Effects of Dyes, Minerals, and Vitamins Used in Cosmetics

Nanoliposome Use to Improve the Stability of Phenylethyl Resorcinol and Serve as a Skin Penetration Enhancer for Skin Whitening

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