Phycocosmetics and Other Marine Cosmetics, Specific Cosmetics Formulated Using Marine Resources

Abstract

Marine resources exist in vast numbers and show enormous diversity. As a result, there are likely many possible applications for marine molecules of interest in the cosmetic industry, whether as excipients or additives, but especially as active substances. It is possible to obtain extracts from active substances; for example, quite a few algae species can be used in moisturizing or anti-ageing products. In the field of topical photoprotection, mycosporine-like amino acids and gadusol are important lines of enquiry that should not be overlooked. In the field of additives, the demonstration that certain seaweed (algae) extracts have antimicrobial properties suggests that they could provide alternatives to currently authorized preservatives. These promising leads must be explored, but it should be kept in mind that it is a long process to bring ingredients to market that are both effective and safe to use.

Mycosporine-Like Amino Acids (MAAs): Biology, Chemistry and Identification Features

“…As with other organisms, human exposure to ultraviolet radiation can cause damage, such as erythema or “sunburn” over the short term and premature skin aging and skin cancer over the long term [ 98 ]. Thus, protection against ultraviolet radiation is extremely important through the use of appropriate clothing and sunscreen, which are part of an overall prevention strategy [ 98 , 99 ]. Several photoprotective products are available on the market.…”

Lipids from Microalgae for Cosmetic Applications

“…Cosmetics have always played an important role in society. They are stable and homogenized mixtures of substances, resulting from an exact combination of active principles, excipients, and additives that are respectively the ingredients responsible for the asserted cosmetic activity, the substances ensuring the desired pharmaceutical dosage form, and the substances added to preserve the product and to improve its organoleptic properties [33]. Cosmetics clean, perfume, protect or modify the appearance of the part of the human body where they are differently applied by rubbing, pouring, and spraying, such as epidermis, hair, nails, lips, external genital organs, teeth, mucous membranes of the oral cavity [34].…”

Sustainable Sources from Aquatic Organisms for Cosmeceuticals Ingredients

“…and Isochrysis galbana, EPA and DHA, respectively [51]; macroalgae, such as Laminaria, are also rich in omega 6 fatty acids. Another example of interesting filamentous macroalgae is the Cladophora glomerata, which contains unsaturated fatty acids C16:1 (n-7) and C18:1 (n-3), acting as an emollient and protector of water skin loss [52,53]. Based on these studies, it can be assumed that in general, lipids from marine organisms can represent a value for their use as ingredients in cosmeceutical formulations as moisturizing agents to preserve normal skin appearance [19].…”

“…They are natural and harmless to the environment like the synthetic filters or TiO 2 nanoparticles, and moreover they exhibit absorbance in the wide range UV spectrum and do not generate harmful ROS. However, although there are some patents for the cosmeceutical application of these compounds obtained from marine organisms [87], only a few companies, such as Gelyma or Mibelle Biochemistry, produce sun care products, such as Helionori®or Helioguard T™ , which contain MAAs from the red algae Porphyra umbilicalis [53,88,89].…”