Physical performance testing in climbing—A systematic review

Langer, Kaja; Simon, Christian; Wiemeyer, Josef

doi:10.3389/fspor.2023.1130812

Cited by 9 publications

(3 citation statements)

References 163 publications

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“…One study to date has determined recreational and elite climbers have similar anthropometric characteristics, however they do differ compared to a generally active population ( 13 ). Regardless of these differences in body composition among climbing and non-climbing populations, stronger evidence indicates trainable physical characteristics (shoulder power, finger, hand, and arm strength, flexibility, etc…) are more important for climbing performance ( 40 , 41 ). Despite little to no evidence indicating anthropometric characteristics predict climbing performance both elite and recreational climbers appear to continue to practice weight manipulation behaviors, which may result from body and weight ideals perpetuated by broader social norms, social media, and traditional sport performance practices.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Social media behaviors and body type ideals predict weight loss and food tracking behaviors among recreational climbers

Slagel,

Kage,

Wichern

2024

Front. Sports Act. Living

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IntroductionElite and recreational climbers may be at risk for disordered eating, low energy availability (LEA), and increased injury as a result. Social media use among athlete and non-athletes can lead to body image disturbances resulting in unhealthy weight loss practices exacerbating LEA and injury risk. Therefore, the objective of this study was to examine relationships between social comparative behaviors on social media, body type ideals and outcomes, and health behaviors among adult recreational climbers.MethodsParticipants (n = 324) were adult recreational climbers from the U.S. (29.30 ± 9.99 years old and 50% female). Participants answered a 66-item questionnaire comprised of demographics, climbing characteristics, social media behaviors, body type ideals, training and nutrition-seeking behaviors, and weight and food tracking behaviors.ResultsMost participants (78.7%) indicated strength-to-weight ratio was important for climbing performance. Many participants perceived they could perform better at rock climbing if their body proportions were different (59.3%). These body type ideals were found to be significant predictors of performing weight loss and food-tracking behaviors (all p < 0.001). Higher amounts of social comparative behaviors on social media and social physique anxiety independently and significantly predicted attempting weight loss to improve climbing ability (p < 0.001 and p = 0.001 respectively). Those who followed climbing influencers, used Instagram frequently for training and nutrition information, perceived they could perform better at rock climbing if their body proportions were different, or were female and college-aged had significantly higher mean social comparative behavior scores (all p < 0.01).DiscussionThis study expands on prior work with elite climbers by providing a possible explanation for how climbing-related body type ideals and certain social media behaviors can perpetuate negative body image and compensatory behaviors among a general climbing population. Because unhealthy weight management behaviors can lead to injury and health disturbances, broad education programming and social media campaigns should be developed to shift body ideals and nutrition behaviors among recreational climbers.

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Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Social media behaviors and body type ideals predict weight loss and food tracking behaviors among recreational climbers

Slagel,

Kage,

Wichern

2024

Front. Sports Act. Living

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“…Strength testing . All four strength tests were chosen according to the findings of Langer et al [ 43 ], proving all applied testing methods as reliable and valid measurements of climbing specific strength.…”

Section: Methodsmentioning

confidence: 99%

The effects of five weeks of climbing training, on and off the wall, on climbing specific strength, performance, and training experience in female climbers—A randomized controlled trial

Langer,

Andersen,

Stien

2024

PLoS ONE

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Recent research has elucidated the effects of strength training on climbing performance. Although local muscular endurance training of the upper-limbs and finger flexors is frequently suggested, there is currently insufficient evidence to support its impact on climbing performance and climbing-specific strength. Furthermore, there is no evidence on climbers’ experiences related to training and the likelihood of consistent engagement. In addition, the effects of more climbing-specific strength training on walls with built in lights and adjustable angles have yet to be examined. The low percentage of studies involving female subjects, additionally, demonstrates a significant gap in understanding the specific effects of strength training on women in the context of climbing. The aim of this study was thus to assess the effects of five-week on-, and off-the-wall climbing training on climbing performance, climbing-specific strength, and training experience. Thirty-one female lower-grade to advanced climbers were randomly assigned to either a control group, an off-the-wall training or an on-the-wall training group. Apart from the training regimen, all groups followed their usual climbing and bouldering routine. Subjects trained at least twice a week. Bouldering performance, and maximum strength and muscular endurance of the finger flexors and upper-limbs were assessed before and after the intervention. Furthermore, rate of perceived exertion and discomfort, exercise enjoyment, and exercise pleasure were assessed during the first and last training session, as well as after two and a half weeks of training. Intrinsic training motivation was assessed after the last training session. The results showed trends towards positive effects of off-the-wall training on climbing-specific strength, and on-the-wall training on climbing technique. Furthermore, our finding revealed high exercise enjoyment and intrinsic training motivation for both on- and off-the-wall training. Hence, lower-grade to advanced female climbers should rely on personal training preferences.

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“…For the determination of the adaptation of the training intensity of the intervention, maximal strength was used as a reference and measured to be adapted to the lattice training [42]. Maximal strength was defined as the weight (expressed as a percentage of body weight) athletes could sustain for (body weight minus counterweight used for assistance or body weight plus additional weight if the climber can hang on the hold) 7 s on the specified ledge [43]. Recognizing that the maximal strength might be lower than the athlete's own body weight, the weight was supported by a deflection roller (Figure 2).…”

Section: Performance Testingmentioning

confidence: 99%

Assessing the Impact of Neuromuscular Electrical Stimulation-Based Fingerboard Training versus Conventional Fingerboard Training on Finger Flexor Endurance in Intermediate to Advanced Sports Climbers: A Randomized Controlled Study

Dindorf,

Dully,

Berger

et al. 2024

Sensors

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Competitive climbers engage in highly structured training regimens to achieve peak performance levels, with efficient time management as a critical aspect. Neuromuscular electrical stimulation (NMES) training can close the gap between time-efficient conditioning training and achieving optimal prerequisites for peak climbing-specific performances. Therefore, we examined potential neuromuscular adaptations resulting from the NMFES intervention by analyzing the efficacy of twice-weekly NMES-supported fingerboard (hang board) training compared with thrice-weekly conventional fingerboard training over 7 training weeks in enhancing climbing-specific endurance among intermediate to advanced climbers. Participants were randomly divided into the NMES and control groups. Eighteen participants completed the study (14 male, 4 female; mean age: 25.7 ± 5.3 years; mean climbing experience: 6.4 ± 3.4 years). Endurance was assessed by measuring the maximal time athletes could support their body weight (hanging to exhaustion) on a 20 mm-deep ledge at three intervals: pre-, in-between- (after 4 weeks of training), and post-training (after 7 weeks of training). The findings revealed that despite the lower training volume in the NMES group, no significant differences were observed between the NMES and control groups in climbing-specific endurance. Both groups exhibited notable improvements in endurance, particularly after the in-between test. Consequently, a twice-weekly NMES-supported fingerboard training regimen demonstrated non-inferiority to a thrice-weekly conventional training routine. Incorporating NMES into fingerboard workouts could offer time-saving benefits.

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Physical performance testing in climbing—A systematic review

Cited by 9 publications

References 163 publications

Social media behaviors and body type ideals predict weight loss and food tracking behaviors among recreational climbers

Social media behaviors and body type ideals predict weight loss and food tracking behaviors among recreational climbers

The effects of five weeks of climbing training, on and off the wall, on climbing specific strength, performance, and training experience in female climbers—A randomized controlled trial

Assessing the Impact of Neuromuscular Electrical Stimulation-Based Fingerboard Training versus Conventional Fingerboard Training on Finger Flexor Endurance in Intermediate to Advanced Sports Climbers: A Randomized Controlled Study

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