Potential of antioxidant extracts produced by aqueous processing of renewable resources for the formulation of cosmetics

Abstract

The performance of natural extracts obtained from underutilized and residual vegetal and macroalgal biomass processed with food-grade green solvents was compared with that of commercial antioxidants. Selected extracts were obtained from two terrestrial sources: winery byproducts concentrate (WBC) and chestnut burs hydrothermally fractionated extract (CBAE), and from two underutilized seaweeds: Sargassum muticum extracts, either extracted with ethanol (SmEE) or after alginate extraction and hydrothermal fractionation (SmAE) and from Ulva lactuca processed by mild acid extraction and membrane concentration (UlAE). These extracts showed in vitro antioxidant properties comparable to commercial antioxidants and were safe for topical use based on the absence of skin-irritant effects at 0.1% on reconstructed human tissues. The stability of several cosmetic model emulsions was assessed during accelerated oxidation assays. The incorporation of natural extracts produced from renewable underutilized resources at 0.4-0.5% in an oil in water emulsion reduced lipid oxidation during storage. ABSTRACTThe performance of natural extracts obtained from underutilized and residual vegetal and macroalgal biomass processed with food-grade green solvents was compared with that of commercial antioxidants. Selected extracts were obtained from two terrestrial sources: winery byproducts concentrate (WBC) and chestnut burs hydrothermally fractionated extract (CBAE), and from two underutilized seaweeds: Sargassum muticum extracts, either extracted with ethanol (SmEE) or after alginate extraction and hydrothermal fractionation (SmAE) and from Ulva lactuca processed by mild acid extraction and membrane concentration (UlAE).These extracts showed in vitro antioxidant properties comparable to commercial antioxidants and were safe for topical use based on the absence of skin-irritant effects at 0.1% on reconstructed human tissues. The stability of several cosmetic model emulsions was assessed during accelerated oxidation assays. The incorporation of natural extracts produced from renewable underutilized resources at 0.4-0.5% in a oil-in-water emulsions reduced lipid oxidation during storage.

High-value products from macroalgae: the potential uses of the invasive brown seaweed, Sargassum muticum

“…Balboa et al (2014) have suggested that fucoxanthin may represent a major commercial product from S. muticum. Gammone et al (2015) have recently reviewed the effect of various carotenoids (including fucoxanthin) on human health, and in particular cardiovascular health; Maeda (2015) has reviewed the use of fucoxanthin for obesity and diabetes therapy; and Zorofchian Moghadamtousi et al (2014) have reviewed the anticancer and antitumor potential of fucoxanthin.…”

Relevance of Natural Phenolics from Grape and Derivative Products in the Formulation of Cosmetics

“…A winery byproduct concentrate, containing more than 50% phenolics, useful for the formulation of cosmetic emulsions and oils, showed no irritation in an Episkin test [64,65]. Products containing 3%-10% grape extracts were nonirritant in a dermal irritation test in human skin [5].…”

Are coffee silverskin extracts safe for topical use? An in vitro and in vivo approach

“…This potential use was also confirmed by the low release of IL-1a as endpoint of the irritation process (in the range of negative control), which is a highly active and proinflammatory cytokine playing a key role in inflammation, being produced by keratinocytes. IL-1a is a highly active and pleiotropic proinflammatory cytokine that play a key role in inflammation, being the biological mirror of skin irritation (Balboa et al, 2014). Keratinocytes produces IL-1a and IL-1� mRNA in vitro, but only IL-1a biological activity has been identified in keratinocytes cultures (Mizutani et al, 1991).…”

“…Balboa et al (2014) evaluated the in vitro antioxidants properties and the skin irritant effects of natural extracts obtained from under-utilized and residual vegetal and macroalgal biomass. Extracts did not affect the human reconstructed epidermis but the cell via-bility was lower than in this study.…”