Pulsations in Surf Zone Currents on a High Energy Mesotidal Beach in New Zealand

Gallop, Shari L.; Bryan, Karin R.; Pitman, Sebastian J.; Ranasinghe, Roshanka; Sandwell, Dean R.

doi:10.2112/si75-076.1

Cited by 2 publications

(2 citation statements)

References 29 publications

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“…These classifications are similar to those used in other studies Austin et al, 2013;Scott et al, 2014;Gallop et al, 2015;2016a). A linear exit was defined as the drifter moving offshore immediately from the time of deployment, to beyond the edge of the surfzone.…”

Section: Lagrangian Driftersmentioning

confidence: 97%

Wave breaking patterns control rip current flow regimes and surfzone retention

et al. 2016

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Abstract:Recent research into rip currents has revealed the existence of multiple circulation patterns, meaning that no single escape strategy is appropriate in all situations. Rip circulation is influenced by surfzone morphology, which can be inferred from wave breaking patterns in video imagery. Wave breaking often occurs over the bars adjacent to the rip channel, with little breaking over the seaward end of the rip. However, under varying wave and tide conditions, breaking can also occur at the seaward extent of rip channels. Here, we use this difference as a novel wave dissipation parameter to classify a rip channel as either 'open' or 'closed' in terms of rip-head wave breaking. A 4-day field study provided Lagrangian rip current data at a macrotidal, dissipative beach monitored by a coastal imaging system. Using this new parameter, rip channels that were identified as closed exhibited a 31 % increase in

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