Qualification as corporate activism: How Swedish apparel retailers attach circular fashion qualities to take-back systems

Corvellec, Hervé; Stål, Herman

doi:10.1016/j.scaman.2019.03.002

Cited by 38 publications

(37 citation statements)

References 39 publications

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“…• Closing resource loops: this cluster includes CF practices implemented with an aim to keep materials in the economy, Closed-loop recycling, a process where unwanted resources and products are collected, recycled, and then used again to make the same product it came from, and thus to create a circular flow of resources • Recycling for manufacturing a same product type (e.g., recycling polyester fabrics to polyester yarn for the same fashion item production) 42 (44.7%) Al Faruque et al, 2019;Bloomfield & Borstrock, 2018;Bocken et al, 2017;Bukhari et al, 2018;Cattermole, 2018;Corvellec & Stål, 2019;Daddi et al, 2019;do Amaral et al, 2018;Earley, 2017;Earley, 2019;Fischer & Pascucci, 2017;Franco, 2017;Goldsworthy & Ellams, 2019;Haslinger et al, 2019;Holtström et al, 2019;Hu et al, 2018;Hussain, 2018;Hvass & Pedersen, 2019;Karell & Niinimäki, 2019;Koszewska, 2018;Leal Filho et al, 2019;Määttänen et al, 2019;…”

Section: Practicesmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…• Provide guidelines to monitor material flow transparency 7 (7.1%) Bukhari et al, 2018;Corvellec & Stål, 2019;Fischer & Pascucci, 2017;Norris, 2019b;Singh et al, 2019;Staicu & Pop, 2018;Stål & Corvellec, 2018 Total 99 (100%)…”

Section: Infrastructural Supportmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…In addressing these issues, we adopted the definitions and classifications of fashion product lifecycle and fashion stakeholder from previous studies. According to Corvellec and Stål (2019), a fashion product lifecycle is classified into three stages: pre‐consumption, consumption, and post‐consumption stages. Pre‐consumption refers to the stage when fashion is being designed or produced, whereas consumption is the stage when finished fashion products are distributed to, or consumed, by customers.…”

Section: Literature Review and Formulation Of Research Questionsmentioning

confidence: 99%

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How fashion can achieve sustainable development through a circular economy and stakeholder engagement: A systematic literature review

Chong

Ha‐Brookshire

2020

Corp Soc Responsibility Env

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Despite the strong societal demand for circular fashion (CF) businesses, the literature lacks a contextualized understanding about what has been explored versus what has been underexplored in the current literature. Although the fashion supply chain involves many stakeholders, the majority of the literature discusses CF from the stance of internal stakeholders. Less is understood about the external stakeholders' perspective. To offer a holistic understanding about the CF traits (i.e., drivers, strategies, practices, barriers, and enablers) for all stakeholders, we have systematically reviewed the CF literature and integrated a stakeholder's perspective into this review process. Through content analysis, Study 1 shows the current trends in the CF literature and suggests avenues for future research. Through thematic analysis, Study 2 identifies the CF traits for all stakeholders, both internal and external. The results yielded a conceptual framework offering an integrated understanding about how fashion businesses can institute true circularity by engaging external stakeholders in their CF-related endeavors.

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Section: Practicesmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Infrastructural Supportmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Literature Review and Formulation Of Research Questionsmentioning

confidence: 99%

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How fashion can achieve sustainable development through a circular economy and stakeholder engagement: A systematic literature review

Chong

Ha‐Brookshire

2020

Corp Soc Responsibility Env

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“…The CE's ability to positively contribute to environmental growththat is, the net-positive growing of natural capital and ecosystemsis often implied rather than shown or proven. It is no surprise that, in times of today's increasing concern over the climate and ecological emergency faced on this planet, some corporations propagating CE approaches can be accused of trying to use the CE to preempt more stringent environmental policies or making them amenable to their corporate interest (Corvellec and Stål 2019).…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Introduction to the special issue on the contested realities of the circular economy

Corvellec

Böhm

Stowell

et al. 2020

Culture and Organization

Self Cite

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In the past decade the 'circular economy' (CE) has established itself as an influential model for economic development, with the Chinese central and regional governments (Su et al. 2013) and the European Union (European Commission 2018) being early propagators and policy champions. The ambition of the model is to create 'circular' material flows that break with the current 'linear' economic rationale of take, make and dispose, creating business value for its participants (Lacy and Rutqvist 2015; Esposito, Tse, and Soufani 2018). Inspired, among other influences, by the cradle-to-cradle design methodology (McDonough and Braungart 2009), the CE is to create waste-free technical loops that resemble biological loops and make waste disappear at the same time as being restorative and regenerative by design. This ambition has attracted the open support from a wide range of economic and political actors: intergovernmental bodies (OECD), influential forums (World Economic Forum), advocacy associations (World Business Council for Sustainable Development-WBCSD, the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, Circle Economy), leading corporations and consulting firms (e.g. Accenture, Cisco, Dell, H&M, Hewlett Packard, Intel, IKEA, McKinsey, Renault, and Levy Strauss), cities (Amsterdam, Glasgow) and regions (Region Skåne in Southern Sweden). The CE comes with a promise that circular relationships among markets, customers and natural resources (Lacy and Rutqvist 2015) have a unique capacity to combine economic growth with sustainability (Ghisellini, Cialani, and Ulgiati 2016). We acknowledge that the CE is not one 'thing', but, rather, could be seen as an 'empty signifier' (Valenzuela and Böhm 2017), which allows for a whole range of interpretations and approaches to be bundled together under the term 'circular economy'. Indeed, the CE is said to have 114 definitions (Kirchherr, Reike, and Hekkert 2017), which implies that academics and practitioners do not necessarily agree on precisely what the CE entails and how it should be implemented. In short, the CE is a contested concept (Korhonen et al. 2018), which is not surprising as essentially all approaches that try to square the circle of business-society-nature relations can be questioned and challenged from a variety of different viewpoints (McManus 1996; Carew and Mitchell 2008). Despite this 'emptiness' of the CE, allowing for open interpretation and even free, creative associations between a range of economic, social and environmental factors (Murray, Skene, and Haynes 2017), influential economic and political actors have been allowed to hegemonize the CE discourse. The result has been the narrowing down of latent possibilities in the systems thinking that underpins the CE. At heart, the CE is a radical concept, as it is historically embedded in a critique of established systems relations that have produced the 'unsustainability' that characterizes contemporary, linear forms of global capitalism (Hobson 2016). At its best, CE thinking takes a whole-systems approach, aiming to redesign e...

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“…Though Figure 5 may show that this is done within the household, remake and repair commonly require the assistance of others, such as the mother mending clothes or a workshop repairing the cell-phone. The activity of turning undesirable objects back to being desirable is also termed 'qualification': that is, providing the objects with adequate qualities (Corvellec and Stål, 2019). The efforts required for qualification are often motivated by economy or emotion, and by the normative wrongness of 'wear and tear'.…”

Section: Everyday Household Waste Prevention As a Practicementioning

confidence: 99%

Reducing household waste : A social practice perspective on Swedish household waste prevention

Bissmont¹

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I would like to express my warmest gratitude to my supervisor Kerstin Sandell. Without your guidance and steadfast support this thesis would never have been completed. And to my co-supervisor HB Wittgren, for your support, kindness and buoyant encouragement. Thank you, Henrik Aspegren and Ebba Sellberg, for making this 'crazy idea' possible in 2015. Thank you for believing in me! Splitting my work between being a development engineer at VA SYD and a PhD student at Malmö University has had its ups and downs. The ups are definitely my colleagues at VA SYD, especially you at the Solid Waste Department. Thank you for sharing tears and laughter, for giving me ideas and for keeping me down to earth. Special thanks to Savita Upadhyaya for being my greatest inspiration in the fight against waste. And special heartfelt thanks to those of you who supported me when it all became too much and I needed a time out. So many people have been a help and inspiration in my academic training. I am especially grateful to Greger Henriksson and Mikael Klintman, who acted as discussants and readers at my seminars. Your input has improved my thinking and writing. Also to Peter Parker, who has been continuously supportive and given me opportunities to lecture at the university even though it was not a formal part of my studies. Thank you also to colleagues at MUSA and Urban Studies for interesting discussions and inspiring work. Thank you so much Lucy Edyvean for helping me with my writing and the English language. Hanna Hellström, Ulrika Naezer and Emelie Dybeck: thank you for incredibly inspiring talks. You have amazing knowledge and are truly minimising forerunners! I also want to thank Åsa Hagelin for giving me useful feedback and loads of positive energy. And for inviting me to lecture about my research. Finally, my greatest and warmest thanks to my husband Ulf and my son Hannes. Thank you for supporting me through happy times and success as well as bad moods and stress. I love you! And to the rest of my family and friends: thank you for being there!

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Qualification as corporate activism: How Swedish apparel retailers attach circular fashion qualities to take-back systems

Cited by 38 publications

References 39 publications

How fashion can achieve sustainable development through a circular economy and stakeholder engagement: A systematic literature review

How fashion can achieve sustainable development through a circular economy and stakeholder engagement: A systematic literature review

Introduction to the special issue on the contested realities of the circular economy

Reducing household waste : A social practice perspective on Swedish household waste prevention

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