Radiographic Adaptations to the Stress of High-Level Rock Climbing in Junior Athletes

Schöffl, Volker; Hochholzer, Thomas; Imhoff, Andreas B.; Schöffl, Isabelle

doi:10.1177/0363546506293256

Cited by 53 publications

(51 citation statements)

References 23 publications

Supporting

Mentioning

Contrasting

Order By: Relevance

“…Between 2011 and 2013, we re-examined the climbers, resulting in a mean follow-up rate of 75.7% and a mean follow-up period of 11.3 ± 1.2 years. 40 All patients were examined clinically as well as by means of a radiographic examination of the hand in the anteroposterior (AP) view and of the fourth finger in the right hand in the lateral view. The fourth finger was used because some studies found this to be the most injured finger.…”

Section: Methodsmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…22,29 As a higher rate of osteoarthritis in long-time climbers (>5 years) (Figure 1) has been reported, 1,5,11,24,25,39–41 the long-term effects of this high impact and stress on the finger joints of these youngsters cannot be predicted. With the inclusion of sport climbing in the 2020 Olympics in Tokyo, a further increase in training intensity is to be expected.…”

mentioning

confidence: 95%

“…1,5,11,24,25,39–41 Very few data are available for young adolescent (<18 years) climbers. 24,28 Although nontraumatic epiphyseal fractures were first observed at the end of the 1990s, 6,13 they are more common nowadays.…”

mentioning

confidence: 99%

“…The question arose as to whether these adaptations are precursors of osteoarthritis. 29 After analyzing our former adolescent climbers 40 for more than a decade, we aimed in this study to evaluate whether the documented radiographic adaptations lead to the early onset of osteoarthritis and whether radiographic adaptations are related to specific training regimens such as campus board training or training with additional weights.…”

mentioning

confidence: 99%

See 3 more Smart Citations

Long-Term Radiographic Adaptations to Stress of High-Level and Recreational Rock Climbing in Former Adolescent Athletes: An 11-Year Prospective Longitudinal Study

Schöffl

Hoffmann

Imhoff

et al. 2018

Orthopaedic Journal of Sports Medicine

Self Cite

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

Background:In the past few years, competition climbing has grown in popularity, and younger people are being drawn to the sport.Purpose:While radiographic changes in long-term climbers are known, there are little data available on adolescent climbers. The question arises as to whether climbing at high levels at a young age leads to radiographic changes and possibly an early onset of osteoarthritis of the finger joints.Study Design:Cohort study; Level of evidence, 2.Methods:A total of 19 members of the German Junior National Team (GJNT group) and 18 recreational climbers (RC group) were examined clinically and radiographically in 1999. In 2011, these climbers were re-examined (mean follow-up, 11.3 ± 1.2 years). Radiographs were evaluated using a standard protocol, searching for physiological adaptations such as cortical thickness of the middle phalanx and an increased adopted Barnett-Nordin index, as well as for early-onset osteoarthritic changes of the hand. In contrast to the Kellgren-Lawrence scale, subchondral sclerosis was added to the group of physiological, adaptive stress reactions and was not defined as osteoarthritis. Osteoarthritis was defined by a Kellgren-Lawrence grade ≥2.Results:Overall, 15 of 19 (follow-up rate, 78.9%) climbers in the GJNT group and 13 of 18 in the RC group (follow-up rate, 72.2%), with a mean age of 26.8 years, were examined at the 11-year follow-up. Five climbers (33%) in the GJNT group presented with a decreased range of motion for the finger joints, in contrast to only 1 climber (8%) in the RC group. Radiographic stress reactions of the hand were found in 80% of the GJNT group and 46% of the RC group, including cortical hypertrophy (GJNT: 73%; RC: 23%), subchondral sclerosis (GJNT: 80%; RC: 31%), a broadened proximal interphalangeal joint base (GJNT: 67%; RC: 38%), and a broadened distal interphalangeal joint base (GJNT: 53%; RC: 31%). Training intensity in 1999 and body weight in 1999 were significant for the development of radiographic stress reactions in 2011 (P < .05 for both). Signs of early-stage osteoarthritis were seen in 6 climbers: 4 (27%) in the GJNT group and 2 (15%) in the RC group. Significant statistical influences for the development of early-onset osteoarthritis were found for overall total training years (P = .024), use of campus board training in 1999 (P = .033), and climbing level (P = .030).Conclusion:One-quarter of climbers who performed at a high level in their youth showed a “mild” form of osteoarthritis (Kellgren-Lawrence grade 2). In analyzing the training regimens of our climbers for longer than 10 years, we conclude that intensive finger training (eg, campus board training) can lead to early-onset osteoarthritis of the hand. We also demonstrate that a high Union Internationale des Associations d’Alpinisme (UIAA) climbing level correlates with the risk for early-onset osteoarthritis of the hand and therefore must be seen as a risk factor for developing early-onset osteoarthritis of the finger joints.

show abstract

Section: Methodsmentioning

confidence: 99%

mentioning

confidence: 95%

mentioning

confidence: 99%

mentioning

confidence: 99%

See 2 more Smart Citations

Long-Term Radiographic Adaptations to Stress of High-Level and Recreational Rock Climbing in Former Adolescent Athletes: An 11-Year Prospective Longitudinal Study

Schöffl

Hoffmann

Imhoff

et al. 2018

Orthopaedic Journal of Sports Medicine

Self Cite

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

show abstract

“…Many scientific climbing papers only present case studies or common hand injuries [17,19,30,41,48,54,55,[60][61][62][63] and are there- Table 1 The ten most frequent localization of climbing specific diagnoses 1/98-12/01 [61] n (%) Schöffl …”

Section: Injury Distributionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Feet injuries in rock climbers

Schöffl

Küpper²

2013

WJO

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

While injuries of the upper extremity are widely discussed in rock climbers, reports about the lower extremity are rare. Nevertheless almost 50 percent of acute injuries involve the leg and feet. Acute injuries are either caused by ground falls or rock hit trauma during a fall. Most frequently strains, contusions and fractures of the calcaneus and talus. More rare injuries, as e.g. , osteochondral lesions of the talus demand a highly specialized care and case presentations with combined iliac crest graft and matrix associated autologous chondrocyte transplantation are given in this review. The chronic use of tight climbing shoes leads to overstrain injuries also. As the tight fit of the shoes changes the biomechanics of the foot an increased stress load is applied to the fore-foot. Thus chronic conditions as subungual hematoma, callosity and pain resolve. Also a high incidence of hallux valgus and hallux rigidus is described.© 2013 Baishideng. All rights reserved. Key words: Rock climbing; Sport climbing; Feet injuries; Hallux valgus; Overstrain injuriesCore tip: While injuries of the upper extremity are widely discussed in rock climbers, reports about the lower extremity are rare. Nevertheless almost 50 percent of acute injuries involve the leg and feet and most frequently are strains, contusions and fractures of the calcaneus and talus. The chronic use of tight climbing shoes leads to overstrain injuries also. As the tight fit of the shoes changes the biomechanics of the foot an increased stress load is applied to the fore-foot. Thus chronic conditions as subungual hematoma, callosity and pain resolve. Also a high incidence of hallux valgus and hallux rigidus is described.

show abstract

Rock and Ice Climbing

Schöffl

2012

Adventure and Extreme Sports Injuries

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

Radiographic Adaptations to the Stress of High-Level Rock Climbing in Junior Athletes

Cited by 53 publications

References 23 publications

Long-Term Radiographic Adaptations to Stress of High-Level and Recreational Rock Climbing in Former Adolescent Athletes: An 11-Year Prospective Longitudinal Study

Long-Term Radiographic Adaptations to Stress of High-Level and Recreational Rock Climbing in Former Adolescent Athletes: An 11-Year Prospective Longitudinal Study

Feet injuries in rock climbers

Rock and Ice Climbing

Contact Info

Product

Resources

About