Relationship between beach profiles and waves at Duck, North Carolina, determined by canonical correlation analysis

Larson, Magnus; Capobianco, Michele; Hanson, Hans

doi:10.1016/s0025-3227(99)00119-x

Cited by 66 publications

(52 citation statements)

References 21 publications

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“…Although many studies have been done, it is currently di cult to derive simple, deterministic equations or models to describe the relationship between the waves and the pro les except in well-de ned situations when a few processes control the pro le response [14]. CCA method provides a way to identify patterns and structures in the data that can be linked to these physical processes.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…CCA, rst introduced by Hotelling (1935) [37], have been used by coastal researchers to nd patterns in wave and pro le data and to predict the beach pro le response due to waves (e.g. Larson et al [14];Horrillo-Caraballo and Reeve [38]). CCA has also been used to analyze the evolutionary patterns of multiple longshore bars and the interactions between them [39].…”

Section: Data Analysis Methodsmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…The interaction between waves and beach pro le responses in the nearshore is a highly complicated phenomenon and is characterized by a wide range of spatial and temporal scales [12,13]. It is often di cult to derive simple, deterministic equations or models to describe the relationship between the waves and the pro les, except in well-de ned situations when a few processes control the pro le response [14]. Thus, there is a need to employ sophisticated statistical models that reveal the links between the two physical processes.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Thus, there is a need to employ sophisticated statistical models that reveal the links between the two physical processes. Canonical correlation analysis (CCA) is one such advanced statistical technique that can be used to determine dominant patterns of covariability in two data sets and their relationship [14]. This study will investigate relationships between high-frequency swash zone oscillations and wave characteristics in the inner surf zone using CCA.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Relationship between high-frequency sediment-level oscillations in the swash zone and inner surf zone wave characteristics under calm wave conditions

Liu

2016

Open Geosciences

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Swash zone topography rapidly responds to the surf zone waves. Understanding how sandy beaches respond to wave action is critical for beach erosion research, and plays a critical role in the design and maintenance of shore protection structures. The main objectives of this study were to detect the relationship between high-frequency beachface oscillations and surf zone wave characteristics under plunging breakers by using Canonical Correlation Analysis (CCA). The study site is located in Houjiangwan Bay, eastern Guangdong. Topography data were sampled at 6 min intervals. The wave characteristic parameters were calculated by spectrum method. During the eld work, the beach showed a re ective state and plunging breakers controlled the surf zone. The beach cusp topography was destructed gradually. The analysis provides 4 canonical correlation processes between the beachface variations and surf zone waves, which explained 95.28% of the overall variation in the data. The result shows wave steepness, the irregularity factor and spectral broadness factor had strong impacts on the topography. The wave steepness was the most important factor for beach pro le variations. The results of the present study indicate that data-driven statistical analysis, such as CCA, is useful for analyzing pro le response to waves if there is strong correlation between the two variables (beach pro les and wave).

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Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Data Analysis Methodsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Relationship between high-frequency sediment-level oscillations in the swash zone and inner surf zone wave characteristics under calm wave conditions

Liu

2016

Open Geosciences

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“…However, previous studies have shown that the beach profile response can also be linearly related with forcing. For example, Kraus et al (1991), Larson and Kraus (1992; and Larson et al (2000) derived linear relationships between nearshore bar properties and the beach elevation, and various simple hydrodynamic variables. In another example, Lee et al (1995;1998) and Birkemeier et al (1999) observed that the nearshore profile volume increased linearly in response to groups of high-energy storms.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Nonlinear transfer function modelling of beach morphology at Duck, North Carolina

Gunawardena

Ilic

Pinkerton

et al. 2009

Coastal Engineering

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This paper presents a simple nonlinear data-based modelling approach for predicting the beach profile volume at Duck, North Carolina, USA. The state-dependent parameter form of the general transfer function (SDP TF) model is used to describe nonlinearity influencing these morphological data in two case examples. Case 1 investigates the nonlinearity associated with the dependency of wave forcing on the preceding beach volume. Case 2 investigates the ability to model the variables within the well known diffusion equation for beach volume using this data-based approach. The results of this study show that the SDP TF approach can be used successfully to develop statistically robust models for describing nonlinearity in beach morphological systems. Furthermore, these models are shown to predict the beach volumes over both short (1 month ahead) and long (2 years ahead) time periods, and thus show great potential for practical applications in coastal zone management and engineering. We thank you and the two reviewers for their constructive comments and suggestions.We have fully taken on board all suggested revisions, we believe these will further improve the manuscript. The following addresses all comments made by the two reviewers in detail. Please note that the revised figures are enclosed within the manuscript as these were generated using Matlab TM , and hence could not be saved separately as image files. Best regards yohamaComments from "Reviewer 1" Specific Comments C1. "Clarify position of profiles along coast (including position of Pier)."We welcome the suggestion of the reviewer. This has been clarified by including a location map (Figure 1) of the beach profiles (Profiles 58, 62, 188 and 190) and the FRF pier at Duck. C2. "Clear explanation of the 'volume' discussed in the paper"We agree with the reviewer and apologise for the confusion. We have clarified that the beach profile volume per unit metre of shoreline were computed by integrating the beach profile data between 75 m and 700 m, which extend well beyond the average position of the depth of closure at Duck (latter is at the 4 m depth at ~410 m crossshore) to the 7 m depth (page 10). C3. "Applying Eq.(6) and a straight and parallel coastline is present, no interaction between the profiles should occur. That calls for equal 'volumes' in the 3 profiles; but the 'volume' depends [see also ii)] e.g. on the position of the reference line. Please clarify this point."Detailed Response to Reviewers 2 Here, is our explanation for this comment, which is summarised in the revised paper (page 10). Although the bathymetric contours at Duck are parallel at times, this is not always the case (Miller et al., 1983;Plant et al., 1996;Miller and Dean, 2007) because of longshore differences in the morphology of profiles on either side of the pier. As seen in Figure 2 of the revised manuscript, alongshore volume differences between northerly and southerly profiles occur, particularly post 1991. Reversed migration directions of the nearshore sand bars on either si...

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Field evidence of beach profile evolution toward equilibrium

et al. 2015

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An equilibrium framework is used to describe the evolution of the cross‐shore profile of five beaches (medium grain size sand) in southern California. Elevations were observed quarterly on cross‐shore transects extending from the back beach to 8 m depth, for 3–10 years. Transects spaced 100 m in the alongshore direction are alongshore averaged into nineteen 700–900 m long sections. Consistent with previous observations, changes about the time average profile in many sections are captured by the first mode empirical orthogonal function (EOF). The first EOF poorly describes sections with hard substrate (less than roughly 80% sandy bottom) and also fails near the head of a submarine canyon and adjacent to an inlet. At the 12 well‐described sections, the time‐varying amplitude of the first EOF, the beach state A, describes the well‐known seasonal sand exchange between the shoreline and offshore (roughly between 4 and 7 m depth). We show that the beach state change rate dA/dt depends on the disequilibrium between the present state A and wave conditions, consistent with the equilibrium concepts of Wright and Short (1984) and Wright et al. (1985). Empirically determined, optimal model coefficients using the framework of Yates et al. (2009a, 2011) vary between sections, but a single set of globally optimized values performs almost as well. The model implements equilibrium concepts using ad hoc assumptions and empirical parameter values. The similarity with observed profile change at five southern California beaches supports the underlying model equilibrium hypotheses, but for unknown reasons the model fails at Duck, NC.

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Relationship between beach profiles and waves at Duck, North Carolina, determined by canonical correlation analysis

Cited by 66 publications

References 21 publications

Relationship between high-frequency sediment-level oscillations in the swash zone and inner surf zone wave characteristics under calm wave conditions

Relationship between high-frequency sediment-level oscillations in the swash zone and inner surf zone wave characteristics under calm wave conditions

Nonlinear transfer function modelling of beach morphology at Duck, North Carolina

Field evidence of beach profile evolution toward equilibrium

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