Remote sensing of breaking wave phase speeds with application to non-linear depth inversions

Catalán, Patricio A.; Haller, Merrick C.

doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2007.09.010

Cited by 89 publications

(71 citation statements)

References 44 publications

(88 reference statements)

Supporting

Mentioning

Contrasting

Unclassified

Order By: Relevance

“…Eq. (35), derived from this assumption, uses half the breaker height, which was subsequently pointed out by Hedges (2009) as having been widely applied in an empirical modification of a related Airy expression over the last 30 years (Kirby and Dalrymple, 1986;Dingemans, 1997;Wang et al, 2002;Bell et al, 2004) and agreeing well with large-scale laboratory experiments (Catalán and Haller, 2008). Le Roux (2007b) also compared the obtained breaker lengths with those calculated from cnoidal theory (Boussinesq, 1871;Korteweg and De Vries, 1895) and found that they agree to within 4.5%.…”

Section: Theoretical and Empirical Basis Of Equations Used In The Prosupporting

confidence: 57%

WAVECALC: an Excel-VBA spreadsheet to model the characteristics of fully developed waves and their influence on bottom sediments in different water depths

et al. 2010

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

The generation and growth of waves in deep water is controlled by winds blowing over the sea surface. In fully developed sea states, where winds and waves are in equilibrium, wave parameters may be calculated directly from the wind velocity. We provide an Excel spreadsheet to compute the wave period, length, height and celerity, as well as horizontal and vertical particle velocities for any water depth, bottom slope and distance below the reference water level. The wave profile and propagation can also be visualized for any water depth, modeling the sea surface change from sinusoidal to trochoidal and finally cnoidal profiles into shallow water. Bedload entrainment is estimated under the wave crest and trough, respectively, using the horizontal water particle velocity at the top of the boundary layer.The calculations are programmed in an Excel file called WAVECALC, which is available online to authorized users. Although many of the recently published formulas are based on theoretical arguments, the values agree well with several existing theories and limited field and laboratory observations. WAVECALC is a user-friendly program intended for sedimentologists, coastal 2 engineers and oceanographers, as well as marine ecologists and biologists. It provides a rapid means to calculate many wave characteristics required in coastal and shallow marine studies and can also serve as an educational tool.

show abstract

Section: Theoretical and Empirical Basis Of Equations Used In The Prosupporting

confidence: 57%

WAVECALC: an Excel-VBA spreadsheet to model the characteristics of fully developed waves and their influence on bottom sediments in different water depths

et al. 2010

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

show abstract

“…The non-linear effect makes the wave celerity faster than the linear wave celerity so that the displacement between the experiment and theory is bigger around the termination location. Considering the result given by Catalan and Haller (2008), this is very reasonable result. On the other hand, the better agreement before the breaking initiation due to the non-linear effect is quite important.…”

Section: Comparison With Theoretical Modelsmentioning

confidence: 67%

“…In the case of bore propagation models, the wave height is replaced by the local water depth at two different points, so that the principle is the same. Furthermore saying, as long as seeing the result comparison shown in Catalan and Haller (2008), the shallow water wave is basically regulated by the gd function derived by linear theory. All the other terms in the equation are the correction terms due to the non-linear effect, which is not the decisive term and always gives positive effect on the wave celerity and never slows it down.…”

Section: Bore Propagation Speedmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…So, the accuracy of the estimated water depth is very much dependent on the accuracy of the wave celerity equation to be used. Catalan and Haller (2008), therefore, made a comparison of wide range of wave celerity formula, from linear wave equation to the complicated, non-linear composite formula. The bore propagation formula given by Bonneton (2004) was also in their list.…”

Section: Bore Propagation Speedmentioning

confidence: 99%

See 1 more Smart Citation

Bore Propagation Speed at the Termination of Wave Breaking

Okamoto

Fortes

Basco

2011

Int. Conf. Coastal. Eng.

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

Wave breaking is the most important event in nearshore hydrodynamics because of the energy exertion and mass transportation during the event drive all the nearshore phenomena, such as wave set-up/down, long shore current, and nearshore circulation. Wave celerity is a key parameter in wave breaking especially for the mass transportation, the energy dissipation during the wave breaking event, and the wave breaking index calculation, for example. There are many models to calculate the wave celerity during the breaking event (bore propagation speed) and it is well known that the bore propagation speed is faster than that is given by linear wave theory. But Okamoto et al. (2008) found the bore propagation speed at the termination location of wave breaking becomes much slower than the theoretical estimation when the termination of wave breaking occurs on inversely sloped bottom. In this paper, the bore propagation speed at the termination location of wave breaking is examined with the experimental data collected in a wave tank with simplified bar-trough beach settings. Comparisons with theoretical models are presented. Fourier analysis is performed to investigate the evolution of higher harmonics and synthesized time series, which is a simple summation of linear wave components, is constructed by using the obtained information to calculate the wave celerity during and after the wave breaking. Calculation result reveals that as the breaking wave approaches to the termination, the bore propagation speed decreases towards the value which can be explained by the existence of slowly and independently propagating higher harmonics.

show abstract

“…Several video methods were used to estimate the corresponding parameters: wave height (Almar et al, 2012a), period and surface elevation (inversed from celerity, see Catalan and Haller, 2008;Stockdon and Holman, 2000) were measured from spatio-temporal images; wave direction and shoreline location were estimated from average images (Almar et al, 2012). Determination of the intertidal beach profile involved the delineation of the shoreline at different tidal levels (Aarninkhof et al, 2003) and interpolation between low and high tides.…”

Section: Methodsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Potential of Video Cameras in Assessing Event and Seasonal Coastline Behaviour: Grand Popo, Benin (Gulf of Guinea)

Ondoa

Almar

Kestenare

et al. 2016

Journal of Coastal Research

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

Remote sensing of breaking wave phase speeds with application to non-linear depth inversions

Cited by 89 publications

References 44 publications

WAVECALC: an Excel-VBA spreadsheet to model the characteristics of fully developed waves and their influence on bottom sediments in different water depths

WAVECALC: an Excel-VBA spreadsheet to model the characteristics of fully developed waves and their influence on bottom sediments in different water depths

Bore Propagation Speed at the Termination of Wave Breaking

Potential of Video Cameras in Assessing Event and Seasonal Coastline Behaviour: Grand Popo, Benin (Gulf of Guinea)

Contact Info

Product

Resources

About