Reynolds averaged Navier–Stokes modelling of long waves induced by a transient wave group on a beach

Lara, Javier L.; Ruju, Andrea; Losada, Íñigo J.

doi:10.1098/rspa.2010.0331

Cited by 99 publications

(77 citation statements)

References 31 publications

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“…Another approach for simulating breaking waves is the application of numerical models based on the Reynolds-averaged Navier-Stokes (RANS) equations (e.g. Lin and Liu, 1998), which have been validated for the study of breaking waves (Torres-Freyermuth et al, 2007;PedrozoAcuna et al, 2010) and low-frequency wave transformation Lara et al, 2011) in different environments. In a recent study by Lanza et al (2012), the RANS model application over fringing reefs demonstrates its potential for describing reef hydrodynamics.…”

Section: A Torres-freyermuth Et Al: Modelling Water Levels In Puertmentioning

confidence: 99%

Wave-induced extreme water levels in the Puerto Morelos fringing reef lagoon

Torres-Freyermuth¹,

Mariño‐Tapia

Coronado

et al. 2012

Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci.

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Abstract. Wave-induced extreme water levels in the Puerto Morelos fringing reef lagoon are investigated by means of a phase-resolving non-hydrostatic wave model (SWASH). This model solves the nonlinear shallow water equations including non-hydrostatic pressure. The one-dimensional version of the model is implemented in order to investigate wave transformation in fringing reefs. Firstly, the numerical model is validated with (i) laboratory experiments conducted on a physical model (Demirbilek et al., 2007) and (ii) field observations (Coronado et al., 2007). Numerical results show good agreement with both experimental and field data. The comparison against the physical model results, for energetic wave conditions, indicates that high-and low-frequency wave transformation is well reproduced. Moreover, extreme water-level conditions measured during the passage of Hurricane Ivan in Puerto Morelos are also estimated by the numerical tool. Subsequently, the model is implemented at different along-reef locations in Puerto Morelos. Extreme water levels, wave-induced setup, and infragravity wave energy are estimated inside the reef lagoon for different storm wave conditions (H s > 2 m). The numerical results revealed a strong correlation between the offshore sea-swell wave energy and the setup. In contrast, infragravity waves are shown to be the result of a more complex pattern which heavily relies on the reef geometry. Indeed, the southern end of the reef lagoon provides evidence of resonance excitation, suggesting that the reef barrier may act as either a natural flood protection morphological feature, or as an inundation hazard enhancer depending on the incident wave conditions.

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Section: A Torres-freyermuth Et Al: Modelling Water Levels In Puertmentioning

confidence: 99%

Wave-induced extreme water levels in the Puerto Morelos fringing reef lagoon

Torres-Freyermuth¹,

Mariño‐Tapia

Coronado

et al. 2012

Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci.

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“…The correlation peak for the reflected waves is at τ 2 , and as the reflected signal occurs first at B the lag or travel time is negative in the cross-correlation plot. Those peaks have been observed in laboratory and numerical experiments (Janssen et al, 2003, Lara et al, 2010. In the field, this picture is not always clear, but according to the results obtained in the present study they are still significant for some conditions.…”

Section: Infragravity Wave Data Analysissupporting

confidence: 49%

Infragravity wave forcing in the surf and swash zone

Moura¹,

Rolim²

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Infragravity waves, also known as surf beat, are important morphodynamic drivers in shallow water, especially inside the surf and swash zone where the short wave energy is dissipated due to breaking. In the past decades, great progress has been acquired in the understanding of surf beat and its implication in the coastal environments. However, many key features are still not fully understood, especially for complex natural systems. This thesis investigates infragravity wave dynamics in the surf and swash zone through a re-analysis of laboratory data, new numerical modelling and novel field measurements.The generation of infragravity waves in the surf zone is commonly associated with two individual mechanisms: release of second-order group-forced long waves and long waves generated by group-induced surf zone breakpoint oscillations. Both mechanisms are forced by radiation stress gradients, but due to their individual nature, different relationships between short and infragravity waves are expected.Determining these relationships, their effectiveness, and the governing hydrodynamic and morphodynamic conditions for each mechanism is complex. In the field, observations are still, to some extent, limited and generally restrained to small wave conditions. The first part of the thesis presents a comprehensive study of different infragravity wave generation mechanisms that includes a critical literature review, a re-analysis of previous laboratory data and an extensive numerical modelling investigation.This work provided new information about the implication of the different processes associated to bound wave shoaling, release and dissipation. In addition, key aspects related to the propagation patterns of infragravity waves have been identified. From the numerical investigation and the large amount of laboratory data re-analysed, clear and distinct relationships between the breakpoint and shoreline excursion have been established for each generation mechanism. The second part of the thesis presents a novel method to determine the dominant infragravity mechanism in the inner surf and swash zone in the field. In the field, the breakpoint oscillations and the shoreline motion are measured remotely via video and ii their relationship identified via cross-correlation. The identification of the dominant forcing mode, either bound wave or breakpoint, is interpreted based on the specific relationships previously determined.The results of thirteen field data sets collected from three different beaches indicate that, inside the surf zone, the dominance of bound wave or breakpoint forcing is strongly dependent on the surf zone width and the type of short wave breaking.Infragravity generation by bound wave release was stronger for conditions with relatively narrow surf zones and plunging waves; breakpoint forcing was dominant for wider surf zones and spilling breaker conditions, suggesting also that the bound waves remained forced inside the surf zone, being dissipated during short wave breaking. The numerical and laborato...

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“…It is the easiest technique to be implemented considering that it is based on linear shallow water theory (as presented in equation 5). Previous works on other numerical models Torres et al (2010), Lara et al (2011) have shown that it works relatively well even when used for waves outside the shallow water regime.…”

Section: Boundary Conditionsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Rip Currents on a Barred Beach

Ruju

Caubilla²,

Lara³

et al. 2012

Int. Conf. Coastal. Eng.

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This work presents the numerical study of rip current circulation on a barred beach. The numerical simulations have been carried out with the IH-FOAM model which is based on the three dimensional Reynolds Averaged NavierStokes equations. The new boundary conditions implemented in IH-FOAM include three dimensional wave generation as well as active wave absorption at the boundary. Applying the specific wave generation boundary conditions, the model is validated to simulate rip circulation on a barred beach. Moreover, this study addresses the identification of the forcing mechanisms and the three dimensional structure of the mean flow.

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Reynolds averaged Navier–Stokes modelling of long waves induced by a transient wave group on a beach

Cited by 99 publications

References 31 publications

Wave-induced extreme water levels in the Puerto Morelos fringing reef lagoon

Wave-induced extreme water levels in the Puerto Morelos fringing reef lagoon

Infragravity wave forcing in the surf and swash zone

Rip Currents on a Barred Beach

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