Rip currents

Houser, Chris; Wernette, Phillipe; Trimble, Sarah; Locknick, Summer

doi:10.1016/b978-0-08-102927-5.00011-4

Cited by 8 publications

(4 citation statements)

References 90 publications

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“…During the most energetic events, it is possible to observe localized ruptures in the embayments of the inner and outer bars (Figure 14), creating channels that incise the crest of the bar and allowing for the expulsion of rip currents [95,[107][108][109]. The latter is more frequent on the inner bar (35% of observations; Figure 14) than on the outer bar (5% of observations; Figure 14) and may give rise to asymmetrical inner bars, confirming that oblique waves are required for their formation [8,110,111].…”

Section: Development and Evolution Of Rip Channelsmentioning

confidence: 83%

The Morphodynamics of a Double-Crescent Bar System under a Mediterranean Wave Climate: Leucate Beach

Feyssat,

Certain,

Robin

et al. 2024

JMSE

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The morphodynamics of the Leucate double-crescent bar system was studied over twenty years using bathymetric data supplemented by satellite images and video monitoring. Eleven different bar typologies were identified, mostly based on existing beach state classifications (Low-Tide Terrace, Transverse Bar and Rip, Rhythmic Bar and Beach), also including new heterogeneous typologies (TBR/LTT, RBB HP/RBB, TBR/RBB). The inner bar shows greater variability, with 10 different typologies observed, while the outer bar shows only three different typologies. Summer low-energy periods are dominated by TBR/LTT and TBR typologies, while RBB, although common throughout the year, dominates winter periods along with disrupted bar configurations. The return to less energetic periods in spring is associated with the establishment of heterogeneous typologies. The outer bar has a fairly stable position, although breaches at the embayments and slight movements of its horns can occur following particularly energetic episodes. The inner bar, on the other hand, is much more dynamic, with more common breaches at the embayments and significant cross-shore movement of the horns. Seasonal changes in bar typology do not lead to bar renewal through destruction/reconstruction. Overall, the morphological and typological characteristics of the bar system described here seem somewhat unique compared to the existing literature.

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Section: Development and Evolution Of Rip Channelsmentioning

confidence: 83%

The Morphodynamics of a Double-Crescent Bar System under a Mediterranean Wave Climate: Leucate Beach

Feyssat,

Certain,

Robin

et al. 2024

JMSE

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“…Surf-related drownings in the region tend to be associated with rough surf and rip currents at headlands groins and jetties. While most rips in the region are structural (see Houser, 2020 ), there is evidence of bathymetrically controlled rips resulting from transverse bar and rip nearshore morphology on some beaches ( Vlodarchyk et al, 2019 ).…”

Section: Study Sitementioning

confidence: 99%

Impact of COVID-19 on drowning patterns in the Great Lakes region of North America

Houser

Vlodarchyk

2021

Ocean & Coastal Management

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“…Numerical studies examining flow and bathymetry interactions have focused on predicting rip spacing (Calvete, 2005; Damgaard et al., 2002; Deigaard et al., 1999; Reniers et al., 2004; Valipour & Bidokhti, 2018), and the dependence of rip currents on channel dimensions (Brander, 1999; Castelle et al., 2010; Hong et al., 2021; Kennedy et al., 2008; McCarroll et al., 2018; Winter 2012). However, the bathymetric effects on rip generation and strength remain uncertain, and there are few field and corresponding numerical investigations of sediment transport and channel evolution (Houser et al., 2020).…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Channel rips are strong, wave‐driven offshore‐directed surfzone currents associated with alongshore bathymetric variability. Rip current strengths typically are of the order of 0.5 m/s, but can exceed 2 m/s during storms (Houser et al., 2020), and pose a major risk for beachgoers (Brander, 2015). In addition, rips are important for the exchange of sediments, nutrients, pollutants, phytoplankton, and fish larvae across the surf zone (Aagaard et al., 1997; Brown et al., 2009, 2015; Fujimura et al., 2014; Gallop et al., 2018; MacMahan et al., 2010; Reniers et al., 2009).…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

The Roles of Bathymetry and Waves in Rip‐Channel Dynamics

Christensen,

Raubenheimer,

Elgar

2024

JGR Earth Surface

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The behavior and predictability of rip currents (strong, wave‐driven offshore‐directed surfzone currents) have been studied for decades. However, few studies have examined the effects of rip channel morphology on the rip generation or have compared morphodynamic models with observations. Here, simulations conducted with the numerical morphodynamic model MIKE21 reproduce observed trends in flows and bathymetric evolution for two channels dredged across a nearshore sandbar and terrace on an ocean beach near Duck, NC, USA. Channel dimensions, wave conditions, and flows differed between the two cases. In one case, a strong rip current was driven by moderate height, near‐normally incident waves over an approximately 1‐m deep channel with relatively little bathymetric evolution. In the other case, no rip was generated by the large, near‐normally incident waves over the shallower (∼0.5 m) channel, and the channel migrated in the direction of the mean flow and eventually filled in. The model simulated the flow directions, the generation (or not) of rip currents, and the morphological evolution of the channels reasonably well. Model simulations were then conducted for different combinations of the two channel geometries and two wave conditions to examine the relative importance of the waves and morphology to the rip current evolution. The different bathymetries were the dominant factor controlling the flow, whereas both the initial morphology and wave conditions were important for channel evolution. In addition, channel dimensions affected the spatial distribution of rip current forcings and the relative importance of terms.

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Rip currents

Cited by 8 publications

References 90 publications

The Morphodynamics of a Double-Crescent Bar System under a Mediterranean Wave Climate: Leucate Beach

The Morphodynamics of a Double-Crescent Bar System under a Mediterranean Wave Climate: Leucate Beach

Impact of COVID-19 on drowning patterns in the Great Lakes region of North America

The Roles of Bathymetry and Waves in Rip‐Channel Dynamics

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