Risk factors and injury prevention strategies for overuse injuries in adult climbers: a systematic review

Abstract

IntroductionClimbing is an increasingly popular activity and imposes specific physiological demands on the human body, which results in unique injury presentations. Of particular concern are overuse injuries (non-traumatic injuries). These injuries tend to present in the upper body and might be preventable with adequate knowledge of risk factors which could inform about injury prevention strategies. Research in this area has recently emerged but has yet to be synthesized comprehensively. Therefore, the aim of this study was to conduct a systematic review of the potential risk factors and injury prevention strategies for overuse injuries in adult climbers.MethodsThis systematic review was conducted in accordance with the PRISMA guidelines. Databases were searched systematically, and articles were deemed eligible based upon specific criteria. Research included was original and peer-reviewed, involving climbers, and published in English, German or Czech. Outcomes included overuse injury, and at least one or more variable indicating potential risk factors or injury prevention strategies. The methodological quality of the included studies was assessed with the Downs and Black Quality Index. Data were extracted from included studies and reported descriptively for population, climbing sport type, study design, injury definition and incidence/prevalence, risk factors, and injury prevention strategies.ResultsOut of 1,183 records, a total of 34 studies were included in the final analysis. Higher climbing intensity, bouldering, reduced grip/finger strength, use of a “crimp” grip, and previous injury were associated with an increased risk of overuse injury. Additionally, a strength training intervention prevented shoulder and elbow injuries. BMI/body weight, warm up/cool downs, stretching, taping and hydration were not associated with risk of overuse injury. The evidence for the risk factors of training volume, age/years of climbing experience, and sex was conflicting.DiscussionThis review presents several risk factors which appear to increase the risk of overuse injury in climbers. Strength and conditioning, load management, and climbing technique could be targeted in injury prevention programs, to enhance the health and wellbeing of climbing athletes. Further research is required to investigate the conflicting findings reported across included studies, and to investigate the effectiveness of injury prevention programs.Systematic Review Registrationhttps://www.crd.york.ac.uk/, PROSPERO (CRD42023404031).

Painfully ignorant? Impact of gender and aim of training on injuries in climbing

“…Previous research on chronic injuries in climbing typically includes small selections of participants with a wide range of methods and often of poor quality. 23 As the methods vary, it is not easy to compare results. Still, the present study indicates that the anticipated shift in the epidemiology of climbing injuries is ongoing.…”

“…To avoid injuries, it is vital to know the most common injuries at different performance levels and for each gender. 23 It has previously been suggested that the epidemiology of injuries would change due to the change in the design of routes and boulders. 20 Still, we do not know what the change in movement pattern and the increased level of performance means for the distribution of injuries across the genders.…”