Risk factors for injury in sport climbing and bouldering: a systematic review of the literature

Woollings, Kaikanani; McKay, Carly; Emery, Carolyn A.

doi:10.1136/bjsports-2014-094372

Cited by 83 publications

(80 citation statements)

References 25 publications

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“…Injury patterns in physical activity and sports differ due to age and abilities 2. Still, none of the included papers reported participants in different categories of age, nor did they divide participants into groups based on abilities.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

First overview on chronic injuries in sport climbing: proposal for a change in reporting of injuries in climbing

Grønhaug¹,

Norberg

2016

BMJ Open Sport Exerc Med

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BackgroundClimbing as a youth sport is growing fast. This is mostly due to indoor walls for training attracting youngsters. With hard training from young ages it is vital to be able to pinpoint training regimes to avoid injuries in athletes. Furthermore, it is vital to know what injuries are most common in the sport to be able to prevent them. Such an overview on injuries does not exist to date. The aim of this overview is to summon the injuries described in published research and to extract the most common.MethodTwo literature searches were conducted in PubMed, on 11 August 2013 and 19 August 2015.ResultThe searches gave 1409 titles. All titles were carefully examined for the possible finding of descriptions of climbing-related chronic injuries. This led to the reading of 96 abstracts and then to a final inclusion of 47 papers of which 17 described chronic climbing-related injuries. We found descriptions of 45 chronic injuries in those 17 papers.DiscussionOwing to methodological differences, lack of reporting strategies and non-use of control groups in the included papers, it is not possible to conclude on which groups of climbers are more prone to injuries or to state which injuries are the most prevalent among climbers.

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Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

First overview on chronic injuries in sport climbing: proposal for a change in reporting of injuries in climbing

Grønhaug¹,

Norberg

2016

BMJ Open Sport Exerc Med

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“…In bouldering, the climber ascends short technical routes on low walls up to 4–5 meters using crash mats instead of ropes ( 8 , 12 ). In lead climbing, routes are typically up to 30 m high, where the climber is attached to a rope clipped into permanent bolts using “quickdraws,” spaced intermittently from the bottom up ( 29 ). To help climbers locate a route or boulder problem of an appropriate difficulty, each route or boulder problem has an associated difficulty rating, based on the size of the hand-holds and foot-holds, the distance between hand-holds or foot-holds, the degree of overhang, and frictional coefficient of the rock ( 25 ).…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

ACTN3 Genotype in Professional Sport Climbers

Ginszt

Michalak-Wojnowska

Gawda

et al. 2018

Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research

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Ginszt, M, Michalak-Wojnowska, M, Gawda, P, Wojcierowska-Litwin, M, Korszeń-Pilecka, I, Kusztelak, M, Muda, R, Filip, AA, and Majcher, P. ACTN3 genotype in professional sport climbers. J Strength Cond Res 32(5): 1311–1315, 2018—The functional RR genotype of the alpha-actinin-3 (ACTN3) gene has been reported to be associated with elite sprint/power athlete status. Although large and rapidly increasing number of studies have investigated the associations between the ACTN3 genotypes and athletic performance in various sport disciplines, there is a lack of studies on the genetic predisposition in sport climbing, which was selected to be part of the next Summer Olympic Games in Tokyo 2020 with three subdisciplines (“lead climbing,” “speed climbing,” and “bouldering”). The aim of the study is to determine the frequency distribution of ACTN3 genotypes and alleles in professional lead climbers and boulderers. 100 professional sport climbers from Poland, Russia, and Austria were divided into 2 equal groups: professional boulderers and professional lead climbers were involved in the study. ACTN3 allele frequencies and genotypes were compared with 100 sedentary controls. Genotypes were determined using polymerase chain reaction–restriction fragment length polymorphism method. The percent distribution of RR genotype in the boulderers was significantly higher than in lead climbers and controls (62 vs. 26%; 33%, respectively; χ2 = 17.230, p = 0.0017). The frequencies of ACTN3 R allele in boulderers differed significantly from lead climbers and controls (77 vs. 51%; 58%, respectively; χ2 = 15.721, p = 0.0004). The proportion of the ACTN3 RR genotype is significantly higher in boulderers than in lead climbers and may be related to the specific type of predisposition to this subdiscipline.

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“…Dies zeigt sich unter anderem auch in der Aufnahme der Kletterdisziplinen (Bouldern 1 ; Lead 2 ; Speedklettern 3 ) in das olympische Sportprogramm ab dem Jahr 2020 [10]. Auch in der Wissenschaft gibt es zahlreiche Artikel, die sich dem Klettersport widmen und beispielsweise die Kraftverteilung, Überlastungsschäden und Verletzungen im Klettersport untersuchten [11][12][13][14]. In Bezug auf therapeutisches Klettern gibt es jedoch kaum wissenschaftliche Untersuchungen.…”

Section: Introductionunclassified

Ist-Stand der Fachliteratur zu Effekten des therapeutischen Kletterns auf die psychische Gesundheit – Fazit: viel zu tun

2018

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Risk factors for injury in sport climbing and bouldering: a systematic review of the literature

Cited by 83 publications

References 25 publications

First overview on chronic injuries in sport climbing: proposal for a change in reporting of injuries in climbing

First overview on chronic injuries in sport climbing: proposal for a change in reporting of injuries in climbing

ACTN3 Genotype in Professional Sport Climbers

Ist-Stand der Fachliteratur zu Effekten des therapeutischen Kletterns auf die psychische Gesundheit – Fazit: viel zu tun

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