In a doggerel verse about his tour of Chengdu, 1 Huang Yanpei, Republican China's preeminent educator, wrote, "One idle person wanders the street, counting paving stones; two idle persons go to a teahouse to spend the whole day." 2 This verse presents a vivid picture of the determinedly leisurely style of life Chengdu people once lived. Similarly for Shu Xincheng, another famous educator who visited Chengdu in the 1930s, the strongest impression the city gave him was that of the local culture's prizing of leisure time. He expressed surprise at the huge number of teahouse-goers and their long stay there each day: "Every teahouse is crowded from sunrise to sunset; there is often no room to sit." 3 Still another Chinese visitor noted that in Chengdu, "to eat a meal takes no time at all, but to drink tea in a teahouse takes at least three to four hours." 4 Foreign travelers noticed this widespread culture of leisure as well. According to the geographer George Hubbard, many people had "little else to do on the street but wander and chat." 5 This was the landscape of early twentieth-century Chengdu's streets and public life. The hectic rhythm usually associated with big-city life was hardly in evidence.It is understandable that visitors had such reactions. The leisure culture permeated everywhere and was even actively promoted by the people of Chengdu. As a matched couplet posted by a tea and wine shop advised, "Work hard for reputation and work hard for profit, but find leisure time to drink a cup of tea; work hard for thinking and think hard for working, but seek happiness to sip a little wine."6 A song sung by gambling stall keepers on the sidewalks told a similar story: "Don't hurry and don't be busy. What busy man has a good fate?" 7 Local people joked about their hometown as a city of the "Three Plenties"-plenty of idle people, plenty of teahouses, and plenty of lavatories. 8 411 AUTHOR'S NOTE: My special thanks go to William Rowe for his generous help with this article. I would also like to express my gratitude to Elaine Parsons and Karen Fang for their comments on earlier drafts. I am also grateful to the participants of the general seminar at the Institute of Global Studies in