Roles of breaking and reflection in wave energy attenuation on the shoreface-nourished beach

Li, Yuan; Wang, Ping; Li, Qinyi; Dai, Weiqi; Zhao, Bin; Da-ke, Chen; Zhang, Chi

doi:10.1063/5.0156764

Cited by 7 publications

(2 citation statements)

References 60 publications

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“…In addition, the primary factor that causes sediment suspension is the turbulence generated by breaking waves (Hoefel and Elgar, 2003;Li et al, 2023). In a study conducted by Hattori and Kawamata (1980), the disturbance energy of water flow on sediment within the breaking wave zone was calculated to differentiate between the suspended load and bed load.…”

Section: The Eroded Profile the Nourishment Locations And Wave Condit...mentioning

confidence: 99%

“…During the beach nourishment project, cross-shore sediment transport is vital for the implementation of effective nourishment strategies, which is primarily governed by a combination of waveinduced processes and tidal currents (Li et al, 2023;Zhang et al, 2024). Waves play a crucial role in the movement of sediment across the shore, as they generate currents that drive sediment transport.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

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An experimental study on the evolution of beach profiles under different beach nourishment methods

Meng,

Qu,

et al. 2024

Front. Mar. Sci.

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Due to the influence of storm surges, hard coastal protection structures may exacerbate beach erosion, hence beach nourishment methods are considered in coastal protection and restoration efforts. An experiment is conducted in a wave flume to compare the advantages and disadvantages of three types of beach nourishment methods (berm nourishment, profile nourishment, and bar nourishment) under non-storm and storm wave conditions. The experiment analyzes wave height distribution, beach morphology changes, net sediment transport, shoreline recession, beach width increase, and beach volume changes. The findings indicate that the implementation of bar nourishment strategies facilitates the pre-breaking of storm waves, thereby mitigating the disruption caused by wave breaking on water flow dynamics. Moreover, the application of berm and profile nourishment methods proves to be highly effective in expanding the width of the beach and bolstering its stability. However, it is worth noting that bar nourishment exhibits limited efficacy in terms of restoring beach berms and mitigating coastal erosion within the same duration of wave action. The study presents two equations incorporating hydrodynamic parameters to predict the erosion or accretion status of beaches, and compares the predicted results with experimental data, thereby refining the criteria and making the formulas more applicable to beach nourishment projects. These findings provide valuable insights into the strengths and weaknesses of different beach nourishment methods, which will contribute to the implementation of nourishment projects.

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Section: The Eroded Profile the Nourishment Locations And Wave Condit...mentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

An experimental study on the evolution of beach profiles under different beach nourishment methods

Meng,

Qu,

et al. 2024

Front. Mar. Sci.

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Non-intrusive measurements of wave nonlinearity over movable bed of sediment with different beach slopes

Wang,

You,

Liang

et al. 2024

Physics of Fluids

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A series of laboratory experiments were undertaken to qualitatively investigate the evolution of wave nonlinearity over a movable bed of sediment with five different beach slopes under regular waves in a medium-scale wave flume. An innovative non-intrusive data collecting system, which mainly consists of three side-looking high-speed cameras, was developed to collect high-resolution and synchronous data on free-surface water elevation of waves and bed level changes without causing any disturbances to wave motions and the movable bed of sediment. On analyzing the collected experimental data, it is found that regular waves become nonlinear when they propagate to the shoaling zone and start breaking, and linear wave theory is quite accurate for calculating wave parameters such as orbital velocity with the correlation coefficient r2 = 0.8–0.95 before the waves break, but becomes less accurate after the waves break or are in the breaking zone with the smaller correlation coefficient r2 = 0.4–0.6. Four parameters, wave skewness Skη, asymmetry Ayη, Ursell number Ur, and Rocha number NP0, are introduced to describe the wave nonlinearity, of which Skη and Ayη are found to be of largest amplitudes at the wave breaking point and then start to decrease in the breaking zone and are almost unchanged for different beach slopes, while Ur further increases in the breaking zone and exceed the first larger value as waves approach to shoreline, but NP0 is almost linearly proportional to wave orbital velocity amplitude and quite sensitive to beach slope. The location of sandbar is found close to the wave breaking point in the wave flume and may be also considered as the point where wave nonlinearity becomes important for sediment transport in the surf zone, and the linear wave theory becomes less accurate.

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Recent advances in marine hydrodynamics

Zheng,

Greaves,

Borthwick

et al. 2024

Physics of Fluids

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Roles of breaking and reflection in wave energy attenuation on the shoreface-nourished beach

Cited by 7 publications

References 60 publications

An experimental study on the evolution of beach profiles under different beach nourishment methods

An experimental study on the evolution of beach profiles under different beach nourishment methods

Non-intrusive measurements of wave nonlinearity over movable bed of sediment with different beach slopes

Recent advances in marine hydrodynamics

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