Safety and Photoprotective Efficacy of a Sunscreen System Based on Grape Pomace (Vitis vinifera L.) Phenolics from Winemaking

Abstract

In winemaking, a large amount of grape pomace is produced that is rich in polyphenolics and highly beneficial for human health, as phenols are useful for skin ultraviolet (UV) protection. In this investigation, we evaluated the safety and clinical efficacy of a sunscreen system containing a grape pomace extract from Vitis vinifera L. as a bioactive ingredient. The recovery of phenolics in the waste was performed by percolation. Nine emulsions were developed using a factorial design and two were evaluated clinically: Formulation E, containing only UV filters (butylmethoxydibenzoyl methane, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA), and F, with the extract at 10.0% w/w + UV filters. The antioxidant activity was determined by the DPPH assay and the in vitro efficacy was established by sun protection factor (SPF) measurements (Labsphere UV-2000S). Clinical tests were performed to determine safety (human repeated insult patch test) and to confirm efficacy (photoprotective effectiveness in participants). The results showed a synergistic effect between the sunscreen system and the extract on UVB protection and antioxidant activity. Both samples were considered safe. Formulation F was 20.59% more efficient in protecting skin against UVB radiation, taking approximately 21% more time to induce erythema compared to the extract-free sample.

Grape Pomace for Topical Application: Green NaDES Sustainable Extraction, Skin Permeation Studies, Antioxidant and Anti-Inflammatory Activities Characterization in 3D Human Keratinocytes

“…Studies on the identities and individual concentrations of phenolics recovered after extraction, as well as their biological effects, support the application of extracts in topical preparations [35,36]. We developed a simplified and eco-sustainable process with the aim of making production easier to scale-up, as well cheaper, thus facilitating the valorisation of food waste.…”

Natural Ingredients Common in the Trás-os-Montes Region (Portugal) for Use in the Cosmetic Industry: A Review about Chemical Composition and Antigenotoxic Properties

“…Incomplete extraction of compounds such as polyphenols during winemaking leads to about 70% of the initial active substances remaining in grape pomace waste, 20–30% in peels, and 60–70% in seeds [ 142 , 143 , 144 ]. Some groups of polyphenols present in V. vinifera L. grape pomace are flavanols (flavan-3-ols), flavonols, anthocyanins, condensed tannins, and proanthocyanidins [ 145 ].…”

Valorization of Wine-Making By-Products’ Extracts in Cosmetics

“…After the pre-treatment process, many extraction methods are used to recover phenolic compounds from grape by-products. For example, ultrasound [39,40], supercritical fluid [40], maceration [22,[41][42][43], enzyme-assisted extraction [44], percolation [45] and traditional solid liquid extraction [37][38][39]46,47] are mentioned. Solid liquid extraction remains the most commonly used and accessible technique in the studies of polyphenol extraction for application in cosmetic products.…”