Rocks and trees are not just omnipresent in the landscape around Kourion: They constitute that landscape, far more dramatically and fundamentally than buildings or roads or fields. Light gray or yellowish limestone pushes through thin soil in jumbled outcrops or rough cliffs and underlies the long, rolling ridges of the ancient city's hinterland. To its west, Episkopi Forest impresses not with its height or uniformity, but with its lively and aromatic tangle of Cyprus pines and cypresses, terebinth and myrtle, and many more (fig. 1). In the middle of this scrubby woodland is Kourion's main sanctuary, dedicated to Apollo Hylates: Apollo of the Woodland. At its ritual heart lies not a statue or a temple, but what seems to be a circular arena for dancing around trees.