<scp>SPF</scp> and <scp>UVA</scp>‐<scp>PF</scp> sunscreen evaluation: are there good correlations among results obtained <i>in vivo, in vitro</i> and in a theoretical Sunscreen Simulator? A real‐life exercise

Santos-Caetano, João Paulo; Abarca, A. P.; Guerato, M.; Guerra, Lucas Offenbecker; Schalka, Sérgio; Simao, D.; Vila, Ricardo

doi:10.1111/ics.12322

Cited by 12 publications

(10 citation statements)

References 7 publications

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“…28 The use of BASF Sunscreen Simulator showed good correlations with in-vivo results, representing a valuable tool in the development of sunscreens. 29…”

Section: Resultsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Multifunctional Cosmetic Containing Blueberry and Tinosorb M®- Loaded Microparticles Improves Sunscreen Performance

et al. 2019

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Purpose: We aimed to evaluate the effect of blueberry extract and microparticles (MPs) on sunscreen performance of multifunctional cosmetics. Octocrylene (OCT), benzophenone-3 (BENZ-3) and Tinosorb® M (MBBT) were employed as UV filters. Methods: An in-silico modeling was used to determine the UV filters concentrations to obtain high values of sunscreen protection factor (SPF) and UVA protection factor (UVA-PF). MBBT and blueberryloaded microparticles (MPMB+B) and MBBT-loaded microparticles (MPMBBT) were prepared by spraydrying. OCT and BENZ-3 were added in the oil phase of cosmetics. Cosmetics A and B contained MPMB+B and MPMBBT, respectively, and cosmetic C was prepared without MP. Characterization, physicochemical stability and in vitro SPF was performed. UV filters distribution in human stratum corneum (SC) for each cosmetic was performed. Anti-oxidant activity of blueberry extract was evaluated. Results: Sunscreen combination with the highest SPF was selected for formulations. Formulations A and B maintained their rheological behavior over time, unlike formulation C. In-vitro SPFs for formulations A, B and C were 51.0, 33.7 and 49.6, respectively. We also developed and validated a method for analysis of the UV filters by HPLC/ PDA suitable for the in-vivo assay. In Tape stripping test, MBBT showed SC distribution similar for all cosmetic formulations. OCT and BENZ-3 distribution to formulation A and C was also similar. Blueberry extract showed antioxidant capacity of 16.71 μg/mL equivalent to vitamin C. Conclusion: Cosmetics containing MPs presented better physical stability. Blueberry increased the photoprotective capacity of the formulations and added extra benefits due to its anti-oxidant and anti-aging properties.

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“…28 The use of BASF Sunscreen Simulator showed good correlations with in-vivo results, representing a valuable tool in the development of sunscreens. 29…”

Section: Resultsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Multifunctional Cosmetic Containing Blueberry and Tinosorb M®- Loaded Microparticles Improves Sunscreen Performance

et al. 2019

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“…The SPF of the lip cream formulation was determined according to International Organization for Standardization (ISO 24444) standards and the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) requirements 53–55. Before initiating the trial, the investigator obtained written and dated full approval from the Freiburg Ethics Commission International for the protocol and any amendments, and collected the subjects’ signed informed consent forms.…”

Section: Methodsmentioning

confidence: 99%

<p>A series of in vitro and human studies of a novel lip cream formulation for protecting against environmental triggers of recurrent herpes labialis</p>

Gfeller

Wanser

Mahalingam

et al. 2019

CCID

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PurposeThese studies describe the testing of a novel, daily-use lip cream designed for individuals with lips prone to recurrent herpes labialis (RHL) that protects against environmental triggers.Subjects and methodsIn vitro occlusive and in vitro and in vivo photoprotection analyses, a characterization of normal vs dry lips, and a randomized, evaluator-blinded, clinical trial that assessed the lip cream in healthy subjects with dry lips were conducted. In the clinical trial, subjects applied the lip cream or were untreated and evaluated using transepidermal water loss (TEWL), corneometry, visual assessments of lip dryness, expert photographic evaluations, and subject-rated outcomes.ResultsThe lip cream’s in vitro water vapor transmission rate (84.1 g/(m2 h)) indicated moderate occlusivity. The lip cream, but not placebo or control (water), reduced ultraviolet A (UVA)- and UVB-induced DNA damage, and tumor necrosis factor-α (EpiDermFT) and pros-taglandin E2 release (EpiDermFT and EpiGingival™). The lip cream’s in vivo sun protection factor (SPF) was 12.2 (lower confidence limit, 11.3) and SPF/UVA protection factor ratio was 0.9. The characterization of dry vs normal lips identified differences in moisturization. In the clinical trial, the lip cream significantly decreased TEWL (difference: −7.19 [95% CI: −11.41, −2.98]; P<0.01), increased corneometry (difference: 4.62 [95% CI: 1.05, 8.19]; P<0.05), and reduced visual dryness (difference: −1.48 [95% CI: 2.24, −0.71]; P<0.001) compared to untreated subjects. Significant benefits were also observed on expert photographic assessments of scaling (difference: −0.89 [95% CI: −1.75, −0.03]; P< 0.05), cupping (difference: −1.50 [95% CI: −2.30, −0.70]; P<0.001), and healthy appearance (difference: −1.44 [95% CI: −2.29, −0.58]; P<0.01); differences in overall healthy appearance were not significant (P=0.51). Subject-rated assessments indicated improvements in cracking, dryness, and flaking in the lip cream group but worsening in untreated subjects.ConclusionThese studies indicate that this novel, daily-use lip cream protects against UV radiation, drying, and chapping, which are established environmental RHL triggers.

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“…The latter requirement was verified by estimating a theoretical SPF on the basis of the formulation composition using the Sunscreen Simulator developed by BASF [36]. Such strategy was used since the good performance of the simulator in predicting in vivo SPF of sunscreen formulations in different galenic forms have been verified [37]. A theoretical SPF of 45.7 was After four months storage at 25°C, both emulsions that remained stable as no macroscopic change was observed.…”

Section: Application Of Pickering Emulsions To the Development Of A Surfactant-free Sunscreen Formulationmentioning

confidence: 99%

Formulation of Pickering emulsions for the development of surfactant‐free sunscreen creams

Bordes

Bolzinger

Achak

et al. 2021

Intern J of Cosmetic Sci

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Objective Pickering emulsions are increasingly used in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic fields, especially for topical applications, since these systems require solid particles as emulsifiers instead of surfactants which are known to cause skin irritation. The solid inorganic nanoparticles (TiO2 and ZnO) used as UV filters in sunscreen formulations may also stabilize emulsion droplets, so that the utility of surfactants may be questioned. Surfactant‐free sunscreen emulsions solely stabilized by such nanoparticles (NPs) have been studied. Methods The ability of these NPs to stabilize o/w emulsions containing a ‘model’ oil phase, the C12‐C15 alkylbenzoate, has been assessed. ZnO and hydrophilic silica‐coated TiO2 NPs widely used in sunscreen products were used together with their mixtures. The emulsification efficiency, the control of droplet size and the stability of o/w Pickering emulsions solely stabilized by NPs were investigated. A ZnO/TiO2 NPs mixture characterized by a theoretical SPF of 45 was finally used as unique emulsifiers to develop a surfactant‐free sunscreen emulsion. Results Stable Pickering emulsions containing 10 up to 60 wt% of C12‐C15 alkyl benzoate were formulated with 2 wt% ZnO in the aqueous phase. The droplet size was controlled by the solid NPs content with respect to oil and the emulsification process. Hydrophilic TiO2 NPs did not allow the stabilization of emulsions. The substitution of TiO2 for ZnO up to 60–70 wt% in a 20/80 o/w emulsion was successfully performed. Finally, a ZnO/TiO2 NP mixture was tested as unique emulsifier system for the formulation of a sunscreen cream. Despite a lower viscosity, the obtained Pickering emulsion was stable and exhibited a photoprotective effect similar to the corresponding surfactant‐based sunscreen cream with an in vitro SPF of about 45. Conclusion Surfactant‐free Pickering emulsions can be stabilized by the UV‐filter nanoparticles for the manufacture of sunscreen products.

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SPF and UVA‐PF sunscreen evaluation: are there good correlations among results obtained in vivo, in vitro and in a theoretical Sunscreen Simulator? A real‐life exercise

Abstract: In the present study, the use of BASF Sunscreen Simulator and in vitroUVA tests showed good correlations with in vivo results and could be considered as valuable resources in the development of sunscreens.

Cited by 12 publications

References 7 publications

Multifunctional Cosmetic Containing Blueberry and Tinosorb M®- Loaded Microparticles Improves Sunscreen Performance

Multifunctional Cosmetic Containing Blueberry and Tinosorb M®- Loaded Microparticles Improves Sunscreen Performance

<p>A series of in vitro and human studies of a novel lip cream formulation for protecting against environmental triggers of recurrent herpes labialis</p>

Formulation of Pickering emulsions for the development of surfactant‐free sunscreen creams

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