Screening and characterization of cosmetic efficacy components of Terminalia chebula based on biological activity‐guided methodology

Abstract

Terminalia chebula exhibits a high level of antioxidant capacity and is highly valued in medicine and cosmetics. However, its main efficacy and active ingredients related to antioxidant, whitening, and anti‐aging are still unclear. In this study, the active site responsible for its cosmetic efficacy was specified by the biological activity‐guided method and further characterized by using ultra‐high‐performance liquid chromatography coupled with quadrupole time‐of‐flight mass spectrometry (UHPLC‐QTOF‐MS/MS). T. chebula was ultrasonically extracted by five solvents, and 30% ethanol extract was screened out for subsequent purification by 1,1‐D‐iphenyl‐2‐picrylhydrazyl radical (DPPH), 2,2′‐Azinobis‐(3‐ethylbenzothiazoline‐6‐sulphonate) (ABTS), hydroxyl, and superoxide anion free radical scavenging assays. Five elution fractions were obtained by column chromatography on D101 macroporous adsorbent resin eluted by an increased proportion of ethanol. The 30% ethanol elution fraction was specified as the enrichment site of active ingredients showing good antioxidant capacity and potent inhibitory activity against tyrosinase and elastase. A total of 30 compounds were identified by UHPLC‐QTOF‐MS/MS in the 30% ethanol elution fraction, including 11 gallotannins, 14 ellagitannins, and 5 other compounds, and these compounds may be the key ingredients in cosmetics beneficial for the skin. Such a biological activity‐guided method has provided a simple and rapid venue for specifying the components of medicinal herbs responsible for cosmetic efficacy.